Gobble Gobble!

The Ocellated Turkey in Tikal National Park

First off, I'd like to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving here in the US.  It's a holiday of food, fun and a jump start to the holiday season.  For me, it's the beginning of another epic birding trek somewhere special.  Where will it be?  You'll have to stay tuned. But let's talk turkey.....

Merriam's Turkey on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Turkeys are amazing.  I love to see them in nature and in one instance, I was so focused on my photography that both Kathie and myself were surrounded by turkeys!!!

We had a good laugh as they approached us.  Attack of the killer turkeys!!!

I have been fortunate to see the other variety of turkey in Guatemala....the Ocellated Turkey!!

Wild Turkeys are making a huge comeback in the United States and their range is spreading little by little.  So many people take them for granted, but I remember a time when they weren't so common.  This bird had been wiped out from the landscape due to overhunting. Today the permits are strictly regulated in many states.

And even though I'm a birder,  I do enjoy the taste of turkey on Thanksgiving day.  Is that a bad thing?  If you are looking to try out something new and different with turkey, might I recommend a delicious soup from Guatemala called Kak'ik? It's seriously awesome and even writing about it now makes my mouth water. I'm a Spanish teacher and if you want some extra credit, try this Mayan dish out.  So if you have leftovers.....and who doesn't?.......might I recommend a little international fun to excite the taste buds.  

I've been a little slow on the writing and commenting this past month, but I assure you all that I have been reading your blogs.  I just haven't been commenting on them as much. Yes, I'm a turkey, but it has actually been quite nice to read all of your work like I would a newspaper. It's my daily lunch ritual.  I get my salad and sit down at the computer.  And then I read your work and thoughts:) No word verification or clicking boxes.....just reading.  I've also been on the road with Kathie a lot this month.  We've had great adventures across Southern Arizona and those stories will be told.....eventually.  But for now, it's time to relax and enjoy life....and the cooler weather again!  Happy holidays everyone! And don't forget to check out Wild Bird Wednesday!

The Ebb and Flow

“It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to.”  J.R.R. Tolkien , Lord Of The Rings

Our trek would continue.  After much hiking, I explained to my friend that she would enjoy this next birding venture.  A trek down the Río Dulce.

Masked Tityra-lifebird

We hiked for many days in the heat and humidity.  Our bodies needed a break, but I also needed to continue finding birds.  Everyday, the area hostels offered treks from the town of Río Dulce to the town of Livingston by boat for about 25 US dollars. It's a beautiful ride down this river.

Put a bird on it!  In this case a Great Egret:)

With the breeze on our backs, we navigated around the river picking up people from their  huts.  Many of the places were tucked away on the side of the river hidden by beautiful vegetation. We were so tired that at one point on this boat ride, I almost fell asleep but an Osprey or Tern would fly by quickly awakening me.

It was still fun to find birds that I had already seen like the Osprey, Cattle Egrets, Neotropic Cormorants or Royal Terns in the area.  It was a game.  How many species could I find from sitting in my boat?  

Brown Pelican-I have never seen one in its breeding plumage!

 This river led to the Caribbean Sea and it was this particular habitat I needed in order to find all of these species.  For my friend Lynda, it was an introduction to the Garifuna people of Livingston.  It is a secluded town surrounded by rain forest.  For me, it was retracing my steps on this river once again as I had in the past.....searching for birds.

The iconic men in their wooden canoes were still there fishing in the great waters, but there were also Magnificent Frigatebirds flying over our heads this time. I had finally hoped to add this species on the Guatemala list for the year.  This time around I was able to watch them in flight and notice their various molts.  Some were all black while others were black with white.

Magnificent Frigatebird

 Meanwhile we passed many homes built on this river. The only access was by boat.

Along the shores, I added the Northern Jacana(below) to my Guatemala list.  It wasn't a lifebird, but it certainly was my first time really looking at the bird.  Before, I had taken its presence for granted.  The Jacanas are an interesting group of birds.....especially the Wattled!

Northern Jacana

 I told the Captain that I was counting birds on the river.  The older gentleman smiled and understood the purpose of my visit.  He told his navigator to make sure we stopped by "Bird Island".  And he had my instant respect. Most of the time, the tourists were thrown in a bus and taken to and from their destinations without any considerations.  It is rather common in Guatemala to have rough rides anywhere you go, especially if you're a traveler looking to save some money.  So be aware.....

We stopped near "Bird Island" and my heart melted at the sight of this Groove-billed Ani. They are such unusual looking birds and this particular one reminded me of my cat at home.  I love how it perches on the branch!  Cassie, our cat, puts her paw down the same way the Ani puts the wing down. Plus this has to be one of my favorite birds:)

Groove-billed Ani

 The trip also added another lifebird to my list....the Pale-vented Pigeon!

Pale-vented Pigeon-lifebird

So remember to put those lazy birding days in between the difficult ones to let your body rest.  It can be very draining.  This was a perfect way to bird and relax at the same time.  My friend said to me that it was a vacation and indeed it was, but time was ticking and I only got one shot to find birds here.  It wasn't like back home where I'd be able to go back the next day if I dipped on a bird. On this day, I'd pick up two new lifebirds and 20 new birds for my Guatemala list.

Royal Terns

On the way back, I closed my eyes and slept to the rhythm of the boat bouncing gently on the river.  

Prologue-A Paraque's Dream

As promised, I begin my journals today on Guatemala.  This blog post is about getting ready for these big trips.  They always start with an idea. Then they are followed by a financial plan.  Doubt and anxiety are followed.  Most of us call this a vacation.  For me, it's escaping into a new world full of unknowns.  I find that the older I get, the more anxious I become about those unknowns.  I've been on enough of these trips to prepare for those feelings.  And yet.......

Sun rising over the Avocado farms

I fall in between the lines of young and old. Many times on these trips, I'll come across the younglings who have just graduated from high school or are in the middle of college.  It's grand being a young person.  You know everything and everything is soooooo.....you know......cool!  It's like......spiritual.  To prepare for these "free spirited" people, I now try to remove myself from the kinds of places they stay. It doesn't always work. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not antisocial.  But I've been there and done that in my life.  Sadly, for many young people, it's their last big international party before settling down, getting married and having kids.  They have opinions about everything and of course will list off all the places they've traveled in this world to make themselves appear much more intelligent.  Later at night, they will drink lots, speak loudly, and have plenty of free love.  This is the way of the dirty hostels:)  And I admit that when I was their age, it was pretty damned exciting.  But one grows older........

Rufous-collared Sparrow

I avoid these places as much as I can, but as you can imagine, some towns don't always offer these accommodations.  And then you're stuck.  Such was the case in Panama several years ago.  The drunk young ones declared they would be rafting in the morning. We've heard a thing about drinking and driving or texting and driving, etc.  I'd like to add to that list, "Drinking and Rafting".   Needless to say, I did not go on their raft as they had flipped it several times.  I don't know how many panicked kids we pulled out of the water, but it was fun utilizing our safety procedures until I went in trying to help someone out of the water in the middle of the rapids!  It was an adventurous day.

Howler Monkey

So this time, I planned for some quiet and magical places where my thoughts were my own. The night before my trip, I dreamed of birds. I sat at the internet and researched all the birds asking myself, "Can I find all these birds?  Will I be able to enjoy this stay without birds taking over my mind? I dreamed that I was a Paraque.  I flew everywhere.  Seeing everything. Nothing could hide from my night vision.  I knew where to find them all.  As I flew back at dawn, I saw Red Crossbills drinking from a fountain!  Since I've begun this birding quest, I find myself fighting to keep sane. On this trip, I brought my first ever hummingbird feeder.  Would I remember to look up and breathe?

Groove-billed Ani

It was a strange dream.  You know the ones that make you cry?  In this dream, my mother gave me a wooden bug cage that I used once to capture butterflies, spiders and flies.  The gift came from my deceased Grandmother a long long time ago.  But the cage was now open and I remember my Grandmother smiling. I held the item in my hands and began to weep.  I woke up with tears staining my pillow case.  It was one of those intense dreams that kept me up for the remainder of the early morning hours.

Black Vulture

How many times have I gone to so many countries and never really watched birds? I've spent my entire life learning about people and their habits. But now it's different.  I'm finding myself  pulled in the opposite direction.....away from people.  It is precisely why I returned to Guatemala a second time.  I remember birds everywhere while we were on this trip and yet I was only focused on photography.  As of 2011, much of my work was photography based on cultural trends or themes. My friend Lynda reminded me to expand my views and hopefully, I'll present something new and fresh beyond birds. Over the next several months, I'll weave in these adventures and reports with my current AZ treks. There is a lot to share! More to come....

The Kan'Bah Caves

Day 2 in Lanquin.  We went into the mostly uncharted caves of Kan'Bah.  A deep river flowed through the cave and unfortuneatly, my pics are poor quality.  This was another mistake on our part, but it was one that we shared with others and so it didn't feel as dangerous as our river incident the day before.  But it would be.  That monsoon storm picked up the river current and shot it down into this cavern.  Guatemalans tell you it's safe when they should warn people who can't swim well about the dangers.  We entered this cave with only candles.  I was okay as long as I kept moving.  I've done caving before and love it.  But the minute we stop, I get anxiety attacks.  Now put that with my sister not being able to swim and you've got trouble.  Today's post is a sad one because these pics remind me about another brother/sister team from Tucson who did not make it.  And it all happened the same time we were in Guatemala.  Here's our Kan'Bah story.....

Our new friends planned a day trip into the caves of Kan'Bah and invited us along.  It seemed like a great idea because I had been to several caves before and had a great time.  My favorite part about caves are the bats that drop down right above your head.  There's something really cool about these mammals.  At the mouth of the cave, we encountered several bats flying around the Kan'Bah ceiling.  But we also noticed a river coming out of it flowing into the same Coban river that we nearly lost our lives on the day before.  Now add that with candles and we have a potential issue.  As we entered the dark caves, we waded through water up to our waists.  Until my sister, got into an area over her head....literally! Out went her candle and my own because I went in after her.  The group pulled her up onto a ledge.  She panicked and then....so did I.  Why?  I don't like feeling trapped.  I hate crowds or crowded spaces.  Elevators are not cool.  Car rides after several hours take their toll on me. And concert halls can cause anxiety attacks.  The group went on into the caves leaving us behind with one candle burning.  There was darkness.  Water flowing down a ledge.  Bats flying around our heads.  And candles placed along the sides of the cavern to the exit.  The only issue was that my sister would have to swim through the deep areas of the cave to get out.  In her state of fear, it wasn't going to happen.  The group went further and further into the cave and their voices echoed to a silence eventually.  We wondered if they were going to come back.

The candles to the faint light of the entrance slowly burned out.....as was our own candle.  I thought of things to make us laugh and pass the time.  Eventually, the others returned.  Several people did the same thing we did and stayed on ledges waiting for the group to return.  The others made it into the secret waterfall cavern where they jumped into the darkness of the cool pools below.  Our group helped my sister get her footing on solid rock...slippery....but solid rock nonetheless and we made our way out of this extremely dangerous cave to the people down below.  Open air made me relax and smile.  My sister vowed never to go into water again.  And unfortuneatly to this day, she won't go into unknown waters without being able to see the bottom. The pic below shows the Coban river after the monsoon storm.  Never ever ever again.  And to my Tucson readers, this rule applies to all of us here.  Recently a man was swept to his death as a wash suddenly filled after a microburst formed on the East side of town.  He was taking his dog for a run in the wash like most people do, but during that day a storm hit one side of town while it was sunny where he was at......and yet the wall of water caught him unaware.

Sadly, I'd like to bring this post to a close and remember two siblings from Tucson who did die during the same time period that we were in Guatemala. Stunned, I collapsed on my living room floor after hearing the news. But they were thought to still be alive at the time. So I went on the internet right away to read the Peruvian articles which confirmed that they actually were dead, but their parents still were hopeful.  Even though I didn't know them personally, I understood the pain and sadness around the event.  That could have been easily us.... They had been mountain climbing and fell through an ice crack where they froze to death together on a cave ledge.  Dustin and Kristen Yoder were experienced climbers and their deaths really hit very close to home for me.  Today there is a Dustin and Kristen Yoder Memorial Foundation set up in their names. After all these years, I haven't forgotten these two siblings.  Imagine being a parent and losing both your children.  I can't imagine the pain that they went through during this tragedy and continue to feel as the years pass by without them.  I imagined my own parents in the same situation and it broke my heart.  Life is precious and we can't take it for granted because you never know when your time is up. Their story and example reminds me to live each day to my fullest. And you know what?  If you watch their slideshow, they lived and had wonderful lives....and they did what they loved best.  We can't dictate how the cards are dealt, but we certainly should play the game the best we can. And that's all we can do.  More tomorrow.

The Mystery of Tikal

A thousand years ago, a community of Mayans lived in the jungles around the city of Tikal.  It thrived for a period of time as a center of commerce, art, culture, and religious significance.  Then mysteriously, the Mayans disappeared. The jungle grew back and hid the ancient city of Tikal until its' eventual discovery by Spanish explorers.

Notice how moisture evaporates off the forest floor in the morning?

Entering the park is a treat all of its' own. The thing I love about Guatemala is that they don't tell you how you're going to feel before the experience or how tall you need to be to get on a ride or that there aren't any fences around water areas full of crocodiles......it's real. And because it's real, this country attracts a kind of traveler with common sense.  There are times when you may say, "Holy S%$t!" but you know that it will be worth the experience.  We entered the park which is an immense jungle area full of mosquitos.  You'll pass the Giant Ceiba trees, trees covered with tillandsias(the air plants), and a tropical assortment of wonderful plant life.  If you go early enough, you'll see plenty of fauna.  Remember to be quiet when walking the dark trails to the pyramids. If you go earlier in the morning, you'll find the experience cooler and less humid......and also free of the busloads of tourists that come in the afternoon.

One of the many ancient sites at Tikal

Most of the time, we were by ourselves on the trails and several times, we got lost.  NEVER wander from the trails.  The jungle is immense in this part of the world and it's very dangerous.  Bring lots of water with you as people dehydrate quickly from sweating in the tropical climate.

After an adventure on a rickety old staircase, my sister and I, made it the top for some spectacular views.....and a nice breeze:)

This was one of those experiences on my bucket list.  It was one of the most magical experiences of my life and it was worth the journey there.  Some people fly while others take busses......we took the bus because there were some places along the way we had to visit.  Guatemala is a treasure and one of the most beautiful countries in the world. The pyramids are stunning as are the trails that lead to them. 

Still used today as a religious center, Mayans use these alters in front of the pyramid at Tikal

So what happened to the Mayans?  This is my theory after years of thinking about the matter.  Some would have you believe that aliens took them......and that would be rather cool, but I don't think that was the situation.  Our world today is faced with overpopulation and I believe the Mayans, who massed in the thousands at somewhere around 120,000, couldn't maintain their food or water supplies which resulted in the city of Tikal being abandoned. At the time, a city of that population was rare and unique in a rain forest region.  Most tribes lived in smaller communities because there were limitations on the forest resources.  Smaller communities were easier to maintain.   They had used up all their resources around the area and had nothing left.  My theory is that many of them went to other communities or back into the rain forest.  A plague had destroyed their crops and with overpopulation and agrarian failure, the Mayan reign that lasted for a thousand years, collapsed.  Isn't there a message here?  Somewhere?

I didn't have a great camera back then....but here are some bird nests and that bird in the tree.  It has a yellow tail and made some really cool noises.

The older I get, the more fascinating history becomes to me.  I never liked it in high school.  Reading books was like having your heart ripped out of your chest on the steps of Tikal.  Well maybe not that bad.....but speaking of bodily harm.  Watch your steps in this park.  There are large reptiles hiding in pools of water with no fences around them:) There are tiny signs in Spanish, but if you don't speak the language, you could be food for the native animals:)  Just kidding.....but do be careful.  Guatemala is a very different country than Costa Rica or Las Vegas.:)  More adventures on the way......

More altars used for worship.  Copal is burned on them.

Don't wander far off the path or you may get lost in this!!! Most people depart to Tikal from the beautiful and colonial island city of Flores. It's about a 45 minute ride to the park.  A bloody, yet accurate depiction of Mayan life can be seen in the film Apocalypto by Mel Gipson. I know I know...the name may bring random thoughts, but he did an amazing job on this film.

Bring water and mosquito repellent!!

Semuc Champey

The Lagoons of Semuc Champey

A side trip into the northern interior of Guatemala lead us to this magical place of lagoons.  It's a system of pools that flow into caves below ground.  The trickiest part was getting there, but it was worth the effort.  We stopped in a village near Coban where only Mayan languages were spoken....talk about being in another world.  The city was located in a cold cloud forest and had a lot of charm.  We kept going until we arrived at Coban and then we hired a van that followed a road to the tiny rain forest community of Lanquin.  It was here that we took our day trip to these amazing lagoons and several uncharted caves.

Beautiful lagoons link together in this amazing hike out of Lanquin

Be careful entering this water as the rocks can be slippery.  Also look for the many brown fish swimming around nibbling on the hairs of your legs.  Some people actually jump from the trees into these pools.  I was a little bit leary about doing this.

Bring your swimming trunks and some water shoes

In the above pic, my sister is sitting at the edge of one of these pools.  It's absolutely gorgeous there and sparkles green like an emerald.....and just simply breathtaking.   The village of Lanquin is just as charming as the surrounding area.  I'll never forget the night at a small local restaurant having some chicken and salad.  It had rained and hundreds of fireflies came out in the night sky flashing their beautiful blue and green lights around us.  Also hanging out with us during dinner were several local toads catching themselves their own dinner. 

Don't get too close to this part of the river

Be careful along the edges of certain parts of this trail.  This river rages into the Earth through an underground cavern system.   One slip and you're dead.  I took this picture from a safe distance thanks to the zoom lense:)

Jump off a bridge into a river below

The hikes are great and will really blow your mind.  Today this bridge is used to get to one of the most interesting caves I've ever seen.  If you can't swim, this is not a recommended cave to take because inside you have to swim through deep parts to get to the inside waterfall....and it's dark....and there are bats:)  But is it cool:)  The cave is called the Kan Bah Cavern.  Wear water shoes on these hikes.  PS.  Please be careful going down that river during the monsoon season.  Everyone says the Coban River is a safe tubing experience but it can be dangerous. My little sister almost drowned here and we'll never forget that experience.  Several hours before we went on this "little" adventure, a person from Holland had the same experience and it was no laughing matter.  Also, a headlamp for this part is recommended especially at night when the critters come out.  An Emperor Scorpion came out and stung one of our buddies.....it was hiding in the bedsheets.  Needless to say, this was a memorable journey that will not be forgotten.  This is definitely for the experienced traveler.

Art

This painting is inside my house and reflects my attitudes and personality.  I accidentally found it by researching impressionistic paintings and it is now our living room centerpiece.  It is large and sits over the fireplace mantel.  The artist is Sarah Kadlic from Cleveland, Ohio. Art creates a mood.  I like art a lot, and personally, I have found that when a piece stands out, you should buy it.  It's rare when this happens, but don't let it pass you by. This painting captures how I think of the world.

This week has been an interesting week of blogging for me.  It's weird how some weeks are more personal while others are informational or documental in nature.  I think this last week has been a mix of a lot of concepts that all center around my gardening attitudes. There is the mystery of the Darien Gap that I am researching currently, the rafting aspect that I take on these journeys to view the plant life(travel portion of this blog), the music(the personal and local part of the blog), and of course the informational part such as the fruit trees and their chill hours.  And I have a lot more on design coming up in January and February before March comes around....which will be the one year anniversary of this blog.  So I thought I would start with this simple blog today on art.  A gardener is also an artist and we design in our minds and hearts the things that are pleasing to our eyes....and hopefully others.  I have several projects coming up outside that are going to require a lot of energy in the gardens.  This time of year is kind of the lull before things start picking up again.  For me, it's also the time of year to start planning which means digging, calling in the tree company, and putting in some new hardscape for the year. Of course, there is still acorn cleaning and the protection of plants from Mr. Jack Frost, but that isn't stuff to write about on a regular basis nor would you want to read it!!:)

I'd like to put a fountain similiar to this one in the park of Antigua, Guatemala except without water coming out of various human orifices:). I snapped this shot in 2006.

Plants are the heart of any garden, but the things you put in it are what makes a garden magical. We have several things this year happening on the property that will change the course of the El Presidio Gardens.  Currently we just had a vote on whether or not to get rid of the pool and replace it with a water fountain.  I'm not sure what the people will vote on as the votes are due today, but I have a feeling that we may be saying goodbye to the costly pool.  If that happens, I see this magical Mexican style fountain going in its' place which will change the look and feel of the garden.  I think 2011 will be the year of transformation here.....finally!  I also have a whiskey barrel project that cost 500 dollars to set up.  Plus the planters on the North Side are getting a makeover!  This is sure to be an exciting year for us here!  Well I'm hoping it will be.  Stay tuned for more on the Spring Projects.  Until next time....:)

Rafting

 One of the things I love to do when I travel to another country is go rafting down one of their rivers.  It's a great way to see the countryside without the tourist crowd around you. Here is our adventure on the Urubamba River in Peru outside of Cuzco.

In some places like Guatemala, the Amazon, or in Costa Rica, it's a great way to see the jungle from the inside.


The Nahualate River, Guatemala

Many times you'll start off early in the morning and have a large breakfast before taking off into the breathtaking landscape. Plan 1 day on these treks although some can last from 3-4 days (if you choose) or sometimes even longer......




The Pacuare River, Costa Rica

 You can find many wonderful companies online but make sure you check out the reviews before sending any money.

If you've never rafted before, you can start on a class 2 or 3 river. "Class" refers to how active the river is for rafting.  The higher the number the river; the more action you're going to get. Class 4 is much more exciting and good for those wanting a little bit of the action and splash, but not willing to die:)  Class 5 is ONLY recommended for the professionals. If you want to play it safe, take a Class 3 river run.  I find Class 4 is enough action for me:)

Grab a waterproof camera, or in some cases, there will be rafting operators who'll snap pics for you leaving you to enjoy the journey.  You'll go into some of the most isolated spots in the forests or countryside where you'll be able to study a variety of plants in their undisturbed environments.  You may even see a Native American moving about the forest.....if you're lucky:)  You'll definitely see A LOT OF FLORA AND FAUNA.

Remember to always have a guide if you don't know what you're doing so you can smile like my friend Jen here on the Tambopata River in the Amazon.
 
It's a great way to see National Parks and all the animals/plants that live in those areas.  But if you decide to go into the jungles via this route, remember to keep your eyes open for monkeys and other animals....and if the water is still, remember to keep your voices down or not talk at all to see the maximum amount of critters. Remember that water carries sound.  Best times to go are in the morning or evening when animals are out. Birders, your best time is early in the morning before the sun rises so you can get into your stands with your binoculars and cameras before the parrots arrive at their clay licks.  If you haven't read my earlier posts on several of the places mentioned above, just type in the search box the words Peru, Guatemala, etc and it'll take you to some of my earlier writings.  Until next time, happy adventures!