Birding Maui

Aloha from Hawaii! This US state is an international destination for so many people. While this wasn't a birding trek per say, we did a lot of birding while at our destinations.  So I studied my birds like crazy before our trip. 

Common Waxbills on Oahu

It was my first time to the islands and I didn't know what to expect.  I had read that the "exotics" had taken over this US state because their endemic birds had gone/are/or will be extinct in just a decade or two. I have heard some ABA birders call this place "a bunch of bull$#%^ birding". I roll my eyes at their responses. I understand what they are saying, but I don't like it. I will write about this in next week's post. For now, I was just happy to be free with my camera and explore.  Trinidad has an incredible abundance of flora and fauna, mostly ALL native to the island, BUT I had to be aware of my surroundings there. It's amazing how the birding has a different feel for each place I visit. Here in Hawaii, it was some of the most relaxing birding I've done in a long while. 

Red-vented Bulbul

Once we arrived at the Honolulu airport on Oahu, our "work" began!  As the unofficial birder tradition requires, we, the birders of the world, must rush to the windows and see if we can spot our first "new" bird for the country or state.  So, while waiting for our transfer flight to Maui, I walked out into the open mall of the airport and discovered TWO parks where we could sit down outside!!!!  The hour we waited to fly to Maui was spent observing 5 new bird species right outside our terminal!

Zebra Dove

Everything was perfect.  Micheal did a great job planning our vacation.  I worked around his scheduled events and together, we had a really nice time.  For those of you heading there, let me give you some tips.  We arrived at the Maui airport and picked up our rental quickly.  Then, we went to the Costco, which is also right there, and did some grocery shopping for our two week stay on the island to save money going out to eat everyday.  AND it should be noted that gas IS the cheapest at Costco.  For example, most gas stations charged around 4.50 to 5.00 dollars per gallon.  At Costco, it was 3.25. So be prepared to get in line with everyone else on Maui and wait for that "cheap" gas.  You'll save $$$!

My office

The island is covered with Japanese White-eyes and Common Mynas.  Be prepared to see a lot of chickens and possibly a "pure" Red Junglefowl!

Japanese White-eye

A vacation wouldn't be complete without a traditional Hawaiian luau.  Micheal surprised me with a front row ticket to the stage.  It was a beautiful night along the ocean as we ate tradional food, like poi, and watched some amazing performances.  

In between everything, there were more exotic birds. The two of us would ask each other which part of the island we liked more.  There are SO many different habitats that it was hard to pick just one.  But overall, I liked the highland country where it was cool and misty.  On our way to Haleakala National Park, I fell in love with the grasslands.  Then again, I also loved West Maui along the beach. Or wait!  Maybe I liked the road to Hana more!  Yes, the names of the birds and places will have you puzzled as you try to twist your tongue around these foreign sounding words. 

We'd walk random paths and see random things.  I liked it.  Everything was VERY relaxed on this island.  The traffic wasn't an issue and the people were very kind.  

The mighty Isis rises from the ocean waves

If you ever felt that Cattle Egrets were hard to observe up close, don't worry......they are EVERYWHERE on this island and usually, just a few feet away from where you are standing. 

Cattle Egret

We went to the Nakalele blowhole on West Maui.  Be careful as people have died in this location.  We observed lots of tourists making poor decisions during our treks around the island.  

I laugh now wondering if I'd ever get to see a Common Myna in Hawaii.  I don't laugh anymore because this is an invasive bird.  But I couldn't hate the bird for being there.  They were introduced by people who were not educated and not aware of the fragile ecosystem of the islands.  This bird is only surviving like the human rats that cover this world.  It is as common as a Rock Pigeon, House Sparrow, Grackle, or American Crow. They are VERY smart birds.  I watched them maneuver around the unaware tourists who left their food unattended.  I got the sense that they are as smart or smarter than a jay, raven or gull.  I saw intelligence in their eyes like when I observe a raven or parrot looking at me. 

the very Common Myna

Hawaii is perfection in so many people's eyes.  And from the tourist point of view, it was.  I loved it.  I feel guilty for liking it so much.  This island was taken over by Polynesians, then Europeans and then the US.  It is a mix of EVERYONE.  Today, the atmosphere is inviting to all. When I put on my birder cap, you will see how my views change over the course of my three week write . I talked to people and did interviews with the nature conservancy and Hawaii Audubon Society about the endemic bird situation on the islands.  There are two fronts I'll tackle.  One is the sea bird population.  And the other will focus on the endemic honeycreepers that are found on the various islands.  I'll give you some tips about planning your birding treks there. 

On a personal note, it has been a year since my Grandma passed.  On this night at the luau, I thought about her and how much she would have loved this event.  This very iconic show is as cheesy as it is cool.  It reminded me of the movie Dirty Dancing where all the rich people got together and did rich people things. NOTE: I am not rich. I budget and don't have kids:) That last part of that sentence is the important one to note:) It reminded me of the stories my parents and grandparents used to tell me.  It's what people THINK Hawaii should be. And so it is for them.

 Micheal joked and said this was the Hawaiian version of William Shatner.  This guy was as cheesy as you can imagine, but somehow it was all fun.  I felt like I traced the footsteps of my Grandparents and partook in something that happened back in the 1950's.  They served us drinks the whole night and it was the most relaxing thing ever. I let the birder go for that evening and enjoyed the meal, the dances, the ocean breezes and spending important time with Micheal.  I think it's a great way to cap off your final evening in Hawaii.

Fire dancers!

And we can't forget those dancers!  Wow!  It was hot!  Literally, being up front next to the stage of these fire dancers was.....hot!

In the background, the Common Mynas were watching and waiting for an opportunity to sneak some of the food. Some succeeded.  

Here's my birder take on my first trip to the islands.  Like a surfer, it takes practice to understand how the birding world flows.  In Trinidad, I conquered the birds.  On Maui, I "failed" my first time and within reason.  I picked up all of the birds except TWO very rare ones.  It's not really a failure but I don't like dipping on endemics in isolated areas.  It means I'll have to go back to Maui for only one day to pick up these very endangered birds which pains me. There's not enough time in this life to retrace footsteps. The next time I go, they may be extinct. They are well protected as they should be.  It was out of my control so I did the best I could.

Grey Francolin, one of the more challenging birds to approach

Most of the time, I find my birds alone or with friends.  But with Hawaiian birding, you can't do this alone, you need to work with several agencies to accomplish your goals.  And like the surfer below, I stumbled. 

But I will not stumble again on my next trip back.  I will be better prepared. Over the next 3 weeks, I'll break down what I saw in great detail.  Hawaii may be paradise for humans, but for its endemic birds, the story is a dark and complicated one. 

"Mahalo" for following Las Aventuras.  Until next week my friends!

My Reflection

Ruby-crowned Kinglet

After our exciting day out looking for the special Mexican rarities, I took a bus out of Mexico City to my village Chiautempan, Tlaxcala. It had been 9 years since the last visit. It had been too long.

Nashville Warbler

At this point in the trek, I had two objectives.  1) See my dear family and 2) add data lacking in ebird to the Tlaxcala area.  It was here that I was back again doing my solo work. This kind of work has the most meaning for me. 

30 years ago and today

Before I was a birder, I was an explorer.  As a child growing up in Wisconsin, I had always felt the strong pull towards Mexico and the Southwest of the US.  Nearly 30 years ago, I began my journey into unknown worlds and met a woman who would change my life forever. I had been lost, not understanding my purpose in life.  When I met her, everything about my world changed. 

Year after year, I would visit this extended family.  I felt spiritually connected to them ever since our first days together.  I was their "güero" and they were my Mexican family.  They asked me what took me so long to return and visit.  And I couldn't answer their questions right away.  I bought a house, got married, began birding and had family obligations in Wisconsin.  There's simply not enough time in this life to do everything.  

But when I was home in Tlaxcala again, I felt at peace and happy.  Writing these things makes me tear up.  I feel emotions when I am here in this sacred place.  Every time I arrive to my small little town, I choose to walk the streets alone to my Mom's house so that I can breathe the air, watch the people and hear the Spanish.

Our first night together

We have all changed getting older, but what hasn't changed is the love that is expressed to one another in this family.  I am lucky to have two wonderful families.  Dreams lead me to this sacred town as a young man looking for his place in this world.  He was so innocent and naive then. 

Rare in Arizona but very common in Mexico, the Rufous-backed Robin

As we get older, life changes. Now I am a birder. There was barely any data in my town from ebird.  So I pieced together data and mapped out areas to bird.  Together we explored these areas as a family.  It was very personal and special. 

Vegetables......

Between meals and coffees, I sought areas that held birds of interest while collecting data for ebird.  My research and exploration paid off and I was able to add good data to the area about several theories I had. 

My lifer, the skulky Blue Mockingbird

Sometimes I went alone for a detailed study.  And for others, I explored with my family.  They discovered that several areas were quite active.  The lagoons of Acuitlapilco were alive with life. 

The once active volcano of Malinche.  The forests are magical and untouched!

Over the several days there, my awesome sister set up a special trek into the forests on the dormant volcano Malinche with a crew of people. I was able to access a restricted part of the volcano and do a bird survey there. There will be a special post on that trek. 

Cattle Egret at sunset

The heart of all things is family.  I love Mexico. Everything happens for a reason. If we listen to our hearts, we'll accomplish anything. It's okay to be afraid of the unknown. Twice now I have been in the deep parts of Mexico over the past 6 months.  And twice now I have been given insight. I was just a young teenager when I first came to Tlaxcala. I was a kid about to graduate from high school. In Cabo, I saw a reflection of my younger self on board a ship. During this trip, I saw my youngest self staring back at me. Perhaps a sign from something greater, I was meant to see my past mirrored right before my very eyes. 

What a special night with everyone

During this very special night, several high schoolers from the Midwest of the US were invited to our pozole dinner.  There was a young man, in the lower left side of the pic below, who was staying with one of the family's relatives for a homestay.  I looked into his lost eyes with that wide innocent smile and saw myself from 30 years ago sitting on that couch. The poor soul didn't understand a word of Spanish and it was at that moment that I had realized that I had come a long way in my journey. Was I really that innocent?  That young? I was so open to learning and like a sponge, I was ready to absorb every bit of life experience.

Happy moments for a very special night

Perhaps, Mexico is, in a sense, my church. This place makes me feel an abundance of emotion. Our trip to Cabo in October had the same affect on me. Even shopping for vegetables makes me happy. I feel LIFE pulse through my body here.  Why?  How is that possible?

Black-headed Grosbeaks are a permanent resident in Central Mexico

And on this trip, I found purpose.  I could make a difference here and give back to Mexico as the country had done for me. I could help educate and protect the birds of this area while teaching the public about wildlife conservation. It was a strong feeling. So much work needs to be done here and I could be that change. It's not something I can do overnight but I saw opportunity. 

White-collared Seedeater(Cinnamon-bellied subspecies)

I can't wait another 9 years to visit.  That was too long.  I feel like I have lived here in another lifetime and living and breathing in this region of Mexico is like slipping into a comfortable pair of shoes. 

Tlaxcala holds a place in my heart.  The birding here held meaning. On our last day, we headed up to the magical Malinche for one last familial trek. If you visit Tlaxcala, here are several reports from several key and excellent birding hotspots. 
For the Jardín Botánico de Tizatlán, click here and here.
For the Laguna de Acuitlapilco, click here.   
For the Tlaxcalan Zoo, click here.