Northern Bobwhite hanging out in some of my favorite kinds of plants...Agaves and Mother-In-Laws Tongue(or at least a variety of it)
During the week, I had been looking forward to the day trip to El Ocote. There were some very special birds in this area that I had wanted to observe better. Apparently, there was a huge sinkhole full of nesting Green Parakeets and a pair of Bat Falcons hanging out in this huge crater sized locale.
The minute we arrived into this area, my heart began to beat quickly. Was that a Northern Bobwhite I heard?!!! I scrambled out of the van and was astounded by several of these ground birds casually singing out in the open. This was a bird I thought I would never see and yet here, this "black headed" subspecies hung out singing its' "BOBWHITE!" song. Things were already looking pretty good. So many birds were calling from different areas that I didn't know where to begin.
Boat-tailed Flycatcher
Meanwhile back in the van, our birding group began to drop like flies. Sometime during dinner the night before, the participants ate or drank something deadly. It literally created a massive $*^t storm. We got up for the trek early in the morning and my beloved Helen, in her most British and polite way, told us that she would not be joining us. It got Helen! Meanwhile on the other day trips, the plague began to hit and take out many of the birders in their vans. One man couldn't control himself and ran into the bushes. Another man crumpled to the ground because he lost his strength. And yet another, fell madly ill and passed out in the back for the entire trek. What was going on?! Everything after Wednesday night changed the energy of our tours for the rest of the week.
Fine-lined Hairstreak, Arawacus sito. Thank you Doug Taron for the ID This butterfly is CRAZY. The "tentacles" at the end of this butterfly kept moving and I thought there was something wrong with the butterfly, but it's a distraction mechanism!!!!! The head is actually opposite and "moving tentacles" are a distraction for predators. EPIC BUTTERFLY!
Martin was with us again on the trip and we set out to explore this AMAZING place! I really liked hanging out with this guy. Both of us had the same ideas about where we should focus our attentions. My life bird at 600 was the Green Parakeet and I still didn't have any decent photo documentation. But here in the sinkhole, I had an opportunity to see several thousand of them! Their voices echoed from within the rock walls.
Couch's Kingbird
I did not have enough time in this location so I had to really pick and choose the birds I wanted to see. If I had the time? I would have rented a room in one of their stone cabins and spent a week there. I would have eaten at the restaurant and studied the ancient markings on the inside of the sinkhole's walls. But I only had a couple hours. So time was ticking again. Black-headed Saltator or view the mass of parakeets around the sinkhole? The sinkhole won. Thousands of these birds live there and at dawn they create quite the spectacle as they spiral out of the hole.
The Elf, Microtia elva
I ran up the stairs and stood at the edge looking down. It was something special.
"Sinkhole of Parrots"
While waiting for a flock of Green Parakeets to rise from the pit, I watched an Altamira Oriole hang out in the subtropical vegetation.
Streak-backed Oriole
Then it began. The rise. A choir of squawking parakeets circled from below the pit slowly rising in a swirl until they were eye level with our birding scopes and cameras.
Green Parakeets
Their brilliant green made a dramatic statement against the muted rock face.
A little abstract bird art. I was feeling a bit creative in this magical location
Eventually the birds would land and we would get to see them better.
I felt guilty so I returned back to the van and checked up on our fallen. Two were feeling better, but the other was out stone cold. Please let him be sleeping.
Holcosus chaitzami, Taxa Teiidae, Sauria or common name Chaitzam's Ameiva/Not much is known about this lizard
When we arrived back to our hotel that day, we were greeted by lots of unpleasant stories. One person was escorted to his room because he could not walk. I heard some people calling it a case of the "turista" while others declared it to be "Montezuma's Revenge." Either way, I felt terrible for the group. I also discovered that Helen had returned back home to Britain:( I never got to say good-bye to her. Dinner that night was reduced to half and would continue to diminish by Friday night. For many, their last supper would be spent elsewhere.
I could not afford to get sick. These last two days were my biggest days yet. I had never birded the Pacific lowland habitat and it was the single biggest highlight for me besides this trek to El Ocote. So I'm already organizing a future trek to these areas again with a trip to Palenque and Belize in mind. As for the sick? Well I'm happy to report that everyone is feeling better again. Stay tuned for more....
A retreat into Never Neverland. A place that is both majestic and in constant weather flux, Lake Atitlan made for a cool getaway into the steep mountain sides. We didn't need a stair master at our place since it was already naturally built into our hostel. We climbed hundreds of stairs everyday.
The lake waters continue to rise submerging older structures beneath her depths. It was very bizarre to witness. Along the shores, it had the appearance of guarding lost ancient civilizations.
Grayish Saltator
We visited several areas around Lake Atitlan and searched for wildlife. Every morning a boat would come to pick us up from our pier and take us to the various spots around the lake.
Taken at the Lake Atitlan Wildlife Refuge
Storms would roll in and there were times it was dangerous to be out on that lake. Atitlan would appear calm and smooth until monsoon storms came crashing down all around us at various times of the day. The mists covered the lakes and everything changed quickly. One evening I was trapped out in the storm without a life vest. I clung to the rope as rain poured down on me. We watched as lightning struck the lake. There is nothing like this type of experience to make you realize how small and unimportant you are in the whole scheme of things.
And yet, life can be quite thrilling at times. This over packed boat of passengers was the last launch for the evening. Had we missed it, we would have waited until morning to head back to our hostel.
Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush
There are always unexpected twists while traveling around Mexico and Central America. Patience is the key word and remember that nothing is ever on time. They may say seven, but what they really mean to say is nine:) As a birder, I had to be okay giving up that control a bit while we explored on our own.
Lake Atitlan at sunset
Our searches were fun and we did find new birds almost everyday. Several birds had become common for me and I was able to label them on the spot.
Gray Silky-flycatcher
For many of us, our lives run on a routine. I eventually missed those things we take for granted everyday. For example, I have my sugar out at home for my coffee and hummingbird nectar, but in Guatemala if you left the sugar packets out, the ants would attack from out of nowhere. Some of you may not know this but in Guatemala, you are not supposed to flush your toilet paper in the toilet. It goes into the garbage next to the toilet. It's those little things.......
Yet with these views, who cares!
Tropical Pewee
Some days were cloudy. Some days were sunny. So we took advantage when we could.
I don't often enjoy drinking, but we had such amazing drinks in Guatemala! I hate the taste of beer and yet if you put a dark ale with spicy tomato juice, I'm happy! Micheladas. I missed them so much that when I got home, I made a few while writing several of these posts! So good....
There is a waterfall behind me and I was playing around with my cell phone. We were the only ones walking around the canopy of the rain forest. It was actually a fun walk around Reserva Atitlan.
And of course by our hostel, we had narrow paths that went around the lake. Some cities were safe to visit while others were out of the question. If you visit, ask your hotel, etc where it's safe to go. There are still people who are robbed on parts of these paths.
Brown-backed Solitaire
Here are two lifebirds that I had to look at closely. I noticed that they were just slightly different from several other birds that looked appearance-wise very similar.
Boat-billed Flycatcher
The Mayans rule this part of the world. We were subject to their rules. Never call a Mayan a Guatemalan. They fought brutal years against the Guatemalan regime and won their cause. Today they still speak their own Mayan dialects around the lake and cling fiercely to their ways. They barely tolerate the tourists.
Deforestation continues around this area. It was my final trip here as I will never be returning back in this lifetime again. I hope the Mayans and others understand the need for conservation. It's what has brought millions of people here over the years. But the forests are diminishing by farmers cutting further and further into the mountain sides. I remember what I saw in 2006. So much has changed in 7 years.
Bushtit
Humanity is slowly creeping into more and more habitat and affecting our wild friends. Below are images that I found interesting. A House wren(below) finds a home within human structures.
House Wren
Humans will paint their colorful birds on sides of building. But if they aren't careful, those images will be a faded memory of what was.
And I am reminded that I am getting older. All those straps around my body never used to be there. They are life support to help me exist in this type of climate. They contain water, anti-bug weaponry, money packs, a camera.......and yes, it did take its toll on me.
My final thoughts are below. As your host and Spanish instructor, here is a lesson I learned while on this trip;)
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