The Caroni Wetlands

Little Blue Heron

One of the places I had really been looking forward to exploring was the Caroni Swamp. It's surrounded by wetlands and has a lot of birds not found at Asa Wright. 

Young birders discover a Boat-billed Heron

The Caroni Swamp is known for their endemic and national symbol, the Scarlet Ibis. I was really looking forward to seeing this amazing nightly show. But as I was doing my research, I had been seeing records of American Flamingos showing up in the swamp. Oh my gosh!  Would I finally get to see my first flamingos?!!

Masked Cardinal

As we made our way down into the mangrove area, we stopped and looked at reptiles, crabs and mammals.  In between it all were plenty of birds!  

Birders modeling appropriate swamp gear.  Note the stylish pants tucked into the socks.  This supposedly helps keep chiggers off your body.  It didn't work with me. 

On our way down to Caroni, I went with a group straight out of a birding outfit magazine.  They were all wearing the model gear and I had a laugh. And while writing that last line, I need to mention this info for you all interested in birding Trinidad or Tobago. No camouflage clothing in Trinidad or Tobago!  The guy on the right somehow lucked out.  They made a baby strip down to nothing but diapers in the airport because the kiddo was wearing camouflage.  Apparently this is military apparel and should only be worn by the military.  

Pied Water-Tyrant

Anyhow, for those of you familiar with Trinidad, they used to take people to a hotspot known as the Trincity Sewage Treatment plant.  Well, it's no longer there but there is another spot nearby found here.  There were caiman in the ponds so be careful.  The Pied Water-Tyrant was a friendly bird and reminded me of our Vermilion Flycatchers here in Tucson. 

juvenile Purple Gallinule, note the blue shield

We walked the tropical sludgery.  A storm was coming and I could feel it in the air! My body is a living barometer.  The higher the moisture; the more I sweat and get uncomfortable. Thankfully, I brought my umbrella with me everywhere I went. I had one big backpack.  It had my water container and umbrella. 

I walked carefully with our guide Magis along the muddy road keeping my eyes open for the large reptiles nearby.  

Eventually we boarded our boat and headed down the mangrove highway into the open waters of the swamp.  There we'd spy snakes and a few little Silky Anteaters all rolled up into a ball. 

the Trinidad tree boa is a common snake found resting in tree branches above the waters of the mangrove forests, the latin name is Dormilona(the sleeper) or Corallus ruschenbergerii

As the mangrove opened up to us, I had to make a decision.  My mouth dropped wide open.  To the left, we spied American Flamingos and on the right, it was Scarlet Ibis city. And in between, there were life birds galore.  I didn't know where to begin so I just did my best to document as best as I could.  No where on my trip would I see these birds again as they were hidden well within the boundaries of the preserve. 

Nelson was our group leader who has a lot of family history here at the Caroni Swamp.  His Grandfather proposed to save the wetlands decades ago and was beaten for getting the movement started. People wanted(and continue) to poach this area for food, but the swamp was decimated by locals who had almost destroyed this fragile ecosystem. Sadly, years later, he died from brain injuries. His father continued with the conservation project until his death.  And now, Nelson keeps an eye out and works within this very important wetlands.  Recently, as of last year, American Flamingos had returned to the swamp. When word got out, all 6 of these rare-to-Trinidad flamingos were shot and killed for their special meat.  What meat?! They are not endemic to the islands but they are protected as are the Scarlet Ibis. 

the subtle beauty of a Cocoi Heron

It is now up to Nelson and others to call upon the Trinidad government to monitor these waters from poachers. There are A LOT of poachers in Trinidad. I saw them sporadically during my bird searches.  When a visitor saw this flamingo massacre happen, he filmed it and put it on Facebook.  The government was horrified that people were viewing their country in this light and began patrolling the swamps once again to protect the sanctuary thanks to Nelson's suggestion and pressure from the international community. Recently, Nelson had some equipment stolen from his company.  The government is now helping him out to keep Caroni free of crime. It is really one of the few places to visit in Trinidad that holds a bit of magic for all travelers and locals alike. Today, due to the protections, this bird sanctuary is healing and many species are returning to the area in better numbers. 

And because of this government support and his efforts, over 100 hundred American Flamingos have returned to the swamp.  I had originally thought that the Scarlet Ibis would steal the show but it was the free Flamingo that stole my heart.  Have you ever seen a wild flamingo in flight?

Magis brought a nice cold bottle of rum punch with him and since I was on a boat full of kids, no one really touched the bottle.  I let my guard down and just began to relax and watch the incredible show at sunset!

How many times have I seen flamingos in the zoo and walked past them?  Finding them in the wild was a show stopper and a completely different experience.

juvenile Scarlet Ibis

The Scarlet Ibis, meanwhile, were flying in the thousands to their roosting place adding to the dramatic backdrop. 

The scarlet red colors dotting the vibrant green vegetation reminded me of a Christmas tree. Instead of lights, there were red bows. 

We parked our canoe boat as two flamingos flew over my head.  They were pink batons with wings. 

Some were very light pink while others were a darker rosy pink.  

Then a huge red flush surrounded us as the Scarlet Ibis went to roost one final time.

As we headed back in the dark, I had a nice buzz.  There was one last life bird that we spied on the way back.  I thought I had seen this bird before but I took the pics anyway as he hung out near the nest.  Come to find out I hadn't seen this bird!  So I'm glad I focused a bit.  The confusion?  The more tropical you go, the more names and hyphens are added. 

Black-throated Mango female

 This was clearly one of the mango species.  At the lodge, there is the Black-throated Mango.  And in the swamp, it's the Green-throated Mango.  Ok.  

When I submitted the list to ebird, I discovered an extra lifebird.  So I did the research and discovered that I had confused the Green-throated Mango with the similar sounding Green-breasted Mango we had seen in Costa Rica last year. That was a close one.  I would have kicked myself for missing this bird.  Note to self, relax on the rum punch:)

Green-breasted Mango

The wetlands were a real treat to see.  When I hear the word swamp, it doesn't sound so nice to me, but it really is a beautiful place where you can only find certain species of birds.  It was an easy trek on a boat and an enjoyable experience.  

As we left the shallow waters, I glanced one last time upon these little islands to memorize the landscape.  This will most likely be the last time I ever visit this place in my lifetime.  I hope it stays protected and beautiful forever. For my reports, click on the "here" button for more pictures of birds not mentioned in this post. 
For the new sewage treatment coordinates, click here.
For Caroni Swamp, click here.
In next week's report, we'll explore some of the superstars of the Trinidad birding world.  

The Asa Wright Nature Centre

Over the years, I had heard birders and photographers speak fondly of a place known as the Asa Wright Nature Centre.  I didn't know much about the place until I did some research. At that point, I understood why people had fallen in love with this lodge. It truly is the national gem of Trinidad for international travelers and locals alike.  It was the first time I saw a nature lodge attract EVERYONE to the dinner table, not just people who wanted to bird. 

Located in the Trinidadian mountains covered in lush rain forest, this former cocoa plantation is now a protected area from poachers and people seeking to use the land for agriculture. It is home to hundreds of bird species and a place all birders must visit in their lifetimes. 

I didn't want to do anything predictable this year.  The word "Trinidad" made me curious.  Over the past several years, I've birded the Americas and wanted to do something different.  The place came highly recommended by friends who had visited the centre.  I called them up and made a reservation for a week and instantly fell in love. They picked me up at the airport and within 30 minutes I walked down this corridor of history to the veranda.  Like the thousands of visitors before me, I walked out to overlook this amazing world of forest.  For the days to follow, I would explore the grounds alone or with others. 

During my first day, I saw so much activity. Like a baby learning his first words, I began to say the bird names out loud for the first time. Not all of them rolled off my tongue like I had hoped.  However, after a few days, I was a pro and began calling out birds for people on the veranda. 

It is said that some locals kill and eat anything from the wild.  Several vacationing Trinidadians saw the Brazilian Agoutis(also known as the Red-rumped Agouti) and started talking about how great they tasted. They said the meat was tough so it had to be properly prepared.  I'll take their word for it.  It was the only time I saw agoutis on the island. 

The Bananquit(above) got into everything.  If you didn't watch your fruit dish, they'd sneak a piece off your plate. During my stay, I had hoped to see a Purple Honeycreeper as they are quite common at the lodge.....or so people had said.  But not once did I spy one.   

The infamous veranda was often VERY busy and full of people.  It was here I met Yosanna, my guide for the first couple days.  She is a kind soul and quickly became a new friend during my stay in Trinidad. The guy to the right is Nick.  He was a character. He's doing research right now on the vegetation around the property and trying to figure out a way to save the Trinidadian piping-guan, a critically endangered bird.  The centre would like to bring these guans back to the property and right now Nick is in charge of mapping out the forest. If they can find a way to establish a food source, they might have a chance to help bring this species back from the brink of extinction. 

Copper-rumped Hummingbird

The Centre is a popular place for photographers, specifically for people who love hummingbirds.  Oh my gods did people love their hummingbirds.  And with reason, the hummers are beautiful and also easy to ID! I met so many people who just sat on the veranda all day capturing hummers feeding from flowers. While there, I had 12 new species of hummingbirds flying around the patio and gardens. 

Crested Oropendula

Asa Wright is the name of the woman who had lived on the property until her death in 1971.  Much like the Tucson Audubon's Paton Center for Hummingbirds of Southern Arizona, it was purchased by a biological research group to preserve the grounds.  Today it is run by a non-profit group that meets twice a year to oversee the management, projects, funding and other matters concerning the Asa Wright Nature Centre.  While I was there, the board met for their bi-annual meeting.  It is made up of 11 Trinidadians and 10 foreign members. I don't know how it all works out for them, but as a person participating at the centre, it is really cool to see ALL people enjoying the property and not just international travelers. It gave me the unique opportunity to speak with others living on the island during our meals. 

Speaking of meals, when you get a place at Asa Wright, all your meals are included.  They served breakfast, lunch and dinner.  In between there was always coffee and tea.  And at 6 every night, there was rum punch!  And if you still craved to munch on something, they had a bar fully stocked with beer, chips and other goodies.  It really is a place for people to just go birding and enjoy.  There is no need to want as they take care of you during your stay. 

Hands down, the star of the hummingbird show at Asa, the male Tufted Coquette

Every morning I would wake up and find something new on the property.  It was so exciting.  After several days, I had to work hard to spot several birds like the very vocal Great Antshrikes.  Barred Antshrikes were super common and NOW I have their calls memorized.  Every movie that takes place in the tropics uses their calls.  wa ah ah ah ah, AH AH!  I had always thought those calls were monkeys.  Now I know better:)

Turquoise Tanager

The property is full of danger as well.  You need to be careful. Slippery trails, armies of biting ants, huge crabs that pinch and cool looking scorpions were just a few of the obstacles to avoid while in search of those cool looking birds. 

This is terrible to say but every time I saw this common crab, I got hungry.  They were aggressive suckers.  People crab just beyond the borders of Asa Wright.  They are not allowed to collect crabs on the grounds but we saw people just outside the border doing it.  Poaching was active and obvious on the island. 

There are two types of poisonous snakes that hang out on the trails. One is the Fer-de-lance.  And yes, I saw them.  I ALWAYS stayed on the trails because there were terrible bugs and snakes under the leaf litter. Sometimes you couldn't avoid the leaf litter and my legs were a casualty of these treks. Yes, I used every spray and powder possible but it never works on me. I even wore long pants with geeky socks covering up the bottom of my pants to keep the chiggers out.  It didn't work. One time I was SO careful that I got stabbed by a dangerous palm! When did palm trees become like a cactus?? The back of my leg was covered in spines and blood.  It acted very much like a Cholla cactus here in the Sonoran desert.  After that incident, I was super careful and avoided brushing against palms. 

Dog sized lizards known as the Tegu would slink from the bushes, recently split goes by the latin name, Tupinambis cryptus

It rained every day while we were there.  During those moments of sunshine, I utilized my time to capture the brilliance of their plumage and scales.  White-necked Jacobins(below) dominated the feeders and chased off many of the hummingbirds reminding me of our aggressive male Rufous Hummingbirds that buzz through this month in Southern Arizona. 

Violaceous Euphonias were also very common.  Their name is so strange to say.  There is a similar Euphonia called the Trinidad Euphonia.  I never did get to see them.  They have a blue throat and like to forage HIGH up in the canopy of the rain forest. 

Someone told me that Woody the Woodpecker was inspired by the Linneated Woodpecker below. 

My favorite part of the day was breakfast in the dining room.  There we had the best omelettes made from scratch.  

When the rain began to fall, it was out on the veranda.  Here we'd see birds of prey hanging out on branches waiting for the things to calm down. 

Double-toothed Kite

Between the breaks or after hikes, I'd go to my cabin below and shower.  It was very humid. 

During the course of my stay, I met so many amazing people.  The board was really a fun group of people. I met Julie Fannon of Caligo Ventures. This birding company is located in beautiful Portal, AZ of all places.  It's important to know the name of this company as they do exclusive packages with Asa Wright for birders from North America.  And I'm sure they do work with people outside of North America as well.  They will organize everything for you like your day trips, etc.  I didn't know that a lot of the day trips etc were scheduled with Caligo so I had a little bit of extra work to do on my own.  And I got it all done, but it would have been easier going through their company.  HOWEVER, I'm my own person and do much of my own guiding alone.  I am trained in the ways of the force:) and don't like going through 3rd parties if I don't have to.  I have spent thousands and thousands of hours researching places around the world.  And as a guide, I think it's important for me to figure things out on my own to keep me on my toes.  So one can lodge at Asa Wright and bird the property but if you are looking to do day trips that will require some planning.  Caligo Ventures makes it easy for you.  Julie was awesome and it was great to get to know her and the company better. 

It is my personal opinion that every birder should visit this historic place.  I saved money for it all as it can be a little pricey.  And I did A LOT of research before I went.  Asa Wright Nature Centre was an awesome experience.  It's Trinidad's national treasure and the country is VERY proud of this preserve.  I felt safe and protected.  I never went hungry.  The people were awesome and super friendly. If you are on a budget like I am, plan to go in the summer when it's the off season.  Rooms go for 150 dollars a night (but this also includes your meals and professional guides on the veranda). My plane ticket was also reasonable at around 600 dollars round trip.  This was a very special experience for me and I liked being a lone wolf.  People were surprised that I was traveling alone in Trinidad and not with a group.  I'm an independent one.  I'm the first born in my family and prefer doing things on my own often.  Asa Wright gave me that safety net to help prepare me for the week to follow on my own.  They say that one can get 40 lifers before breakfast right from the veranda and they weren't lying:)    

Our next visit will be to another Trinidadian gem, the Caroni Swamp/Wetlands.  Stay tuned for more fantastic adventures from Trinidad. 

Birding Trinidad

Live from my location in Trinidad, I sit at my makeshift desk escaping the extreme temps of the Arizona desert and an especially intense rain storm in Trinidad right now while in the comfort of my nice cooled a/c room. (This post was written on a rainy day a few days ago:)

The produce market is a great way to meet people and try out wonderful local produce!

I have had a very successful trip here and am now well on my way to 1000 birds.  The work has been difficult.  I am covered in chigger and mosquito bites.  Some of the locals call them "mossys".  It's a bit strange really.  I speak English but I can't speak English here.  For the first time in a long while, I am out of my element.  

A bus stop on the way to the remote village of Brasso Seco known for their chocolate

I have enjoyed the challenges of Trinidadian birding.  I stayed at the posh Asa Wright Nature Preserve for a week.  Then I moved down the mountain into a local apartment to contract several important treks with outside guides. I could have made it easy on myself and just gone through Caligo Ventures out of Portal, AZ BUT I wanted to understand a bit of the Trinidadian culture without the birds.  And I wanted the nitty gritty details. At Asa Wright, all you have to do is worry about birding, but outside of that nice spacious utopia, it's quite the opposite.  It's a culture of increasing crime, poaching and a clash of cultures.  And in between, a lot of wonderful and innocent people are trying to stay out of it all.  I just used common sense and did what everyone else did, go indoors at night and no walking around alone after dark. Oh but they serve great food after hours!

Tropical Mockingbirds were everywhere! While I was doing my laundry, this bird decided to hang out with me.

However if we look past the negative parts, Trinidad is a fascinating island full of interesting culture and amazing rain forest. In fact, over half the island is covered in the green stuff!  The people, cuisine, language and day-to-day operations kept me busy.  Every day, I hear the Spectacled Thrush make its' call.  And one day it popped up into a neighbor's tree and gave me nice views. 

Sounds like the cross between a Gray Catbird and Green-tailed Towhee, the Spectacled Thrush was one of my favorite birds to observe all over the island. 

The food has been a real treat. I have experienced doubles, which are rather messy, and discovered the amazing flavors of roti.  Oh, and Trinidadian rum punch! It's a very tasty drink, but one needs to be careful after several "sips".  It's 75% proof alcohol! Unfortunately I can't bring it back to the states because it's flammable.

Oh I love Asha!  She is an amazing person.  I lived on her property.  One night she made me Callaloo Soup, a Caribbean specialty!

As with any new area, I like to do a safe introduction first and then get into the details after speaking with the locals.  Over the next several weeks, I'll be writing about Asa Wright, the Caroni Wetlands, Nariva Swamp and searching for the critically endangered Trinidad piping-guan. And by the way, all the places I'm mentioning here are also THE places for EVERYONE to visit in Trinidad for birders and non-birders alike. If you're into nature, there's at least two weeks of fun to be had here(this includes the cheap flight over to Tobago!).  I didn't do Tobago on this trip only because I wanted to focus on Trinidad.   

If you thought Mexican or Thai chiles were hot, you haven't tried the super hot Scorpion Peppers of Trinidad!

All I can tell you is that while everything is beautiful and exciting here; I have to be aware of my surroundings. The hardest part? I can't just go out anytime to look for birds, especially the night ones due to safety concerns. People here are super friendly. A woman on the street stopped me and told me to smile! I guess I looked very serious? But I always look serious:) I was the only white guy on the streets.  Normally that doesn't bother me, but here, I saw a few hungry eyes watching and waiting for me to slip up. I haven't seen that look since my days in Managua, Nicaragua. Managua is still the most dangerous place I've ever been. Trinidad was better.  There weren't starving children on the streets looking at you through restaurant windows with their emaciated faces. I got yelled at for feeding them. Where is the humanity?!! Anyhow, I'm side stepping my story here. I always went during the day when there were crowds of people shopping at the produce market.  At the store, one woman got into a conversation with me about broccoli and soup. And I LOVE soup! According the lady, the bastards were now cutting the stems off the vegetable and in our opinion, it was the best part to serve in soup!  At first, I was thinking to myself, are we really having this conversation about broccoli? and then I was like, oh hell yeah we are. She was disgusted and put the stemless head of florets back on the shelf.  Another woman asked me, "What flava do ya seek?" when I ordered a soft drink in the restaurant.  The wording of the question threw me off, but I figured it out quick enough.  I sought the flavor of carbonated pear soda known as Pearadrax.

I loved when the kids were around the neighborhood.  I felt comfortable and happy.  There was a girl's school across the street from me.  The boy's school was down the street. And a church separated the two near a park which was a meeting place for everyone.  

Safety is a high priority for me wherever I go. As an outsider, you always have to be aware of your surroundings. So I have secured myself in a sturdy building with a nice land lady between a church and two schools and even with that protection, there were sketchy things that had happened. There was a drive-by-shooting yesterday near my apartment.  I woke up at 4 AM to the sounds of pop pop pop!  Murder rates continue to rise on the island.  In fact, it dominated many Trinidadian conversations.  One person I spoke with attended her cousin's funeral this past week after he was shot over a disagreement. Another couple had their throats slit the night before in an area that I had just birded and near a fellow guide's village. It's no wonder why everyone locks up after dark! My apartment is secure. Most of my birding expenditures have gone to security type measures. The road to 10,000 birds, heck even for a 1,000!, is not an easy one. So why bother risking my life? These treks bring depth to my knowledge and experience of the birds.  Reading about them is not enough. Seeing them.  Hearing them.  And standing in their habitat gives me a sharper focus. In my upcoming posts, you'll read about and see photos relating to my research. I have to start with this post to give you the cultural background of the island first.  

With the hot and steamy monsoon weather, the icy cold rum punch made everything better, it was the drink of choice on Trinidad next to Carib Beer

While at Asa Wright, I didn't have to worry about my safety at all except for the venomous snakes and bugs. However here in town, I don't bring my expensive equipment with me when I walk around town.  Instead I use my secondary older camera. Or pull out my cell phone.  The only time the big camera comes with me is when I'm with a tour, local, or in a secured location. To understand what made Trinidad, "Trinidad", I spoke with lots of friendly people who loved sharing their stories.  I wanted to understand the culture better because there were some who would mention things like the rich vs poor while others spoke of skin color. Others broke it down further between culture and religion. And then there is the extra dynamic. Venezuelans and Syrians are fleeing their countries for safety.  For the first time in Trinidad history, it's a reverse border issue.  Venezuelans are looking for work. Many are hungry because of the food crisis in their own country. They cross the relatively calm bay of Paria to enter the country.  They bring their guns for trade.  The Trinidadians then take their guns and exchange with food. Meanwhile, who's taking on the refugee Syrians?  Trinidad is. One of the founding groups of Trinidad, as we know it today, were Syrians. 

I was near a cemetery.  So I explore it.  There were many good birds hanging out here BUT on my side of the cemetery, it was nice.  On the other side, it got a little sketchy.  I found a homeless encampment. One of the locals warned me to stay out of that area.

The Trinidad culture is a complex one.  The people are a blend of Syrian, Indian, English and African cultures.  Much like in the US, suburbs are formed to protect communities from the outside world with like-minded people. It was explained to me that the Syrian-Lebanese population is one of the wealthiest in this nation due to their strong business practice. They also have a strong family network and do very well in Trinidad. Around the Port of Spain, many have set up shop and live in secured and safe neighborhoods with private schools.  Meanwhile, the refugee Syrians who are entering the country are being ignored by this elite group of Syrians. It was an interesting dynamic to observe.  It's also interesting to note that this group of refugees is also very friendly with the average Trinidadian person and not closed off like their Trinidadian brethren. Yeah, I don't think we studied island culture in school.  So I had a bazillion questions!

Tropical Kingbirds were SUPER common in the urban neighborhoods

The Venezuelans.  If you have read my blog over the years, you know how Spanish gets my heart pitter patterin'.  One night, we drove past an area full of Venezuelans selling food on the streets.  It was a real popular location.  The wonderful part is that they are all working together to establish themselves. My friend asked, which brought up another conversation later!, "If Venezuelans can come to this country and create work and do well for themselves, why can't a Trinidadian man do the same thing?"  It made me sad as a man to hear this but I understood the issue well.  Meanwhile, my mind wandered towards Venezuela.  Will it ever be safe to travel there one day?  I've heard it's a magical place. In the 90's, I had a roomie from Venezuela by the name of Cesar.  I don't know where he is today, but I hope he is well. We jumped out of a plane together. And we also drank a little too much:) Ah the fun ol' college days. 

Orange-winged Parrots were common at every habitat and at every elevation.  They were often seen while I was doing work outside my apartment. 

The Indian and Syrian sides of the Trinidadian people. There is A LOT of great Indian food on the island. People wear shawls and go to their temples. It's so cool. I was in a car for two hours listening to one of the guides tell the story of how many Indian and rich Syrians will work side-by-side.  She herself was Syrian, Indian and African. Everyone really is a blend, but certain features are prominent.  She told me her son was adopted by the rich Syrians because he looked Syrian. They took him into their culture because he had light skin. There they educated him in their private schools and he did well. So even when there's a cultural blend, light skin is looked at favorably once again. I discovered this attitude in Cape Verde, West Africa as well on the island of Sao Vicente. They were the more "Portuguese" of the islands. In Mexico, it's all about the Spanish blood. Status.  It's a universal thing around this planet. 

I had to know more.  Then I saw a lot of the Rastafarian and people wearing traditional West African garb. Living in Cape Verde, I was very familiar with the style and it made me smile. After speaking with the ladies, I began to notice a certain trend.  Many of the women I had spoken with were not married. One person I spoke with, who works in the university sector, told me that 75 percent of women make up the college population begging the question, "What is happening with the guys?" Then she responded to me with this question, "Why would a woman want to be with a man who will sit all day around the house and expect her to do his job as well?!"  Many women here have said enough is enough.  Meanwhile, what of the men?  Apparently, they have started to hustle. If you travel here, I highly recommend you NOT google the daily news as it's full of horrendous murder reports. Before arriving to the island, I was a bit apprehensive and saw a lot of young men in those reports who had met an unfortunate fate. The cocaine trafficking on the island is a huge problem and many men who are looking to make a quick profit, are getting involved with the drug trade.  Average age for a young man involved in this lifestyle to live on this island is around their 30's and 40's.  It's VERY sad. Who fuels that cocaine traffic?  Why the US of course! And how is it getting across?  The large oil ships from the island.  I spoke with several prominent figures of the oil company who have been dealing with this issue and it has been frustrating for them. 

Green Honeycreepers are like little gems seen flying from tree to tree in neighborhoods. 

For female travelers, this is not an island to travel alone.  One of the women during our treks had the unfortunate business of having catcalls made at her.  A male birder attempted to diffuse the moment and stated, "Those calls were clearly for me." Women are encouraged to travel with a group, friends or family.  Several of the women travelers told me their stories and each sounded the same.  Bring your dad!  Bring your husband! Bring your friends! And they did.  Again, in the tourist sectors, like Asa Wright, we were perfectly safe. 

This banded Great Kiskadee hung out with a Tropical Kingbird

Am I crazy for coming here?  No.  The tourist areas are secured and it's safe to travel during the day in populated areas or with local guides.  On this birding trek, I really got some insight.  I even did some "liming", or going out with some friends, even though people told me not to do it.  You can't live in fear all the time. And I've traveled enough to know the do's and don'ts of going out at night. Trinidad is worth the visit.  Like any place, you just need to use common sense. The birding is epic!

  
And last but not least. I had been getting a lot of questions about food and water.  While I've been here, I've boiled my water from the faucet and drink from the metal thermoflask I brought to cut down on the plastic. I boil it just in case, but it wasn't necessary. The water is fine which surprised me a bit. A lot of people have asked me how the food has been.  Quite honestly, this has been the best trip for anyone who is a vegetarian.  Most of the food makes use of sweet potatoes, garbanzo beans, fresh fresh vegetables, plantain, and lentils!  In fact, I eat mostly veggie dishes.  They were really tasty.  I started making some of the dishes in my apartment.  They sell really interesting curry sauces.  They also serve excellent fish plates and um.....I'm not a fan, but the seafood is very good. I like shrimp and my mouth watered from a spicy rice dish that had huge prawns!  One day,  I accidentally ate some English inspired smoked herring and nearly lost it.  I kept my composure and quickly made the salty and bony matter inside my mouth disappear into a napkin. 

Trinidad is a beautiful country full of kind and wonderful people.  I was invited to dinner at their homes.  And I got to meet some great people and make new friends.  Anyhow, if you like your birding easy, go with Caligo Ventures as it's a safe way to enjoy your trip to Trinidad and Tobago. If you're a little more gypsy, like myself, do your research and have a great time.  We'll explore in my next writes, the awesome that is Trinidadian birding.....