The Superstars of the Trinidadian Birding World

Finding birds can be a very magical experience

A lot of people asked, "Why Trinidad?"  Honestly, I don't know.  I was curious about a new culture.  But birds also helped me make the decision.  Anywhere we go, there are always "the superstars" of the birding world that we hope to observe in the wild.  Trinidad has quite a few that I was excited about observing in the wild. 

a natural stream forms a pool at the Asa Wright Centre

It was also more than just finding the birds.  I wanted to explore the habitat on my own.  For the first time in my life, I actually did some birding in a cave! 

Bearded Bellbird

The first superstar for me was this beautiful Bearded Bellbird above.  This bird feeds from fruits and berries and was rather common here in Trinidad.  If you've ever heard ANY bellbird species, you'll recognize the loud one noted almost electical sounding "BONK!" Throughout your stay at Asa Wright, you'll hear these birds often from inside the forest.  The hike on the dark emerald trail was gorgeous. We followed the "BONK".  After several moments, my eyes finally adjusted and found the bird on a branch. BONK! The "beard" is actually made up of flesh.  The better the "beard", the more attractive the mate!  

The thrill of observing one of those cartoon superstars come alive from the pages in my guide got my heart pumping.  Another journey into this dense forest was to study manakins.  They are one of my favorite groups of birds.  At Asa Wright, there are TWO species of manakin that have well established leks.  For the first time in my life, I was able to communicate with these species.  We "spoke" with one another while I watched them do their thing. 

White-bearded Manakin

Another "bearded" named species, the White-bearded Manakin responded to a sashay two snap "giiiiirrrrrrrrl".  I'd hear the "snap snap" of the wings and snap my fingers twice.  The manakin did an elaborate dance on the ground for me.  I spent several hours with both manakin species in the dark woods forgetting about the chiggers and mosquitoes.  Big mistake on my part.  I was so focused on these birds that I didn't realize I was getting bit up.  

Channel-billed Toucan

One bird that I almost dipped on was the Channel-billed Toucan.  I went days without seeing one and then, I saw one.....for a second.  So could I count it?  Yes, but I wasn't having it.  On my last day at the centre, only one of the toucans flew out for less than a minute and gave me great looks.  Sometimes we don't always get to see our superstars. Take for example, the Purple Honeycreeper!  Not once did I see one.  I saw both Green and Red-legged Honeycreepers.....but never once did I spy the supposedly "common" Purple Honeycreeper.  Lesson for me?  Never assume I'll see the common birds. 

One of the biggest challenges was finding the critically endangered Trinidad piping-guan.  There wasn't anyone going from the centre to look for this bird so I had to contract an outside guide to drive me to the area where they were seen.  From the reports, it was hit or miss.  I think of all the birds on this trip, this was the one I wanted to see the most.  A wise woman told me once to target all the endangered birds first and this year I have employed this strategy.  The Sierra Madre Sparrow and Black-polled and Belding's Yellowthroats were incredibly special finds.  They are endangered because of habitat destruction.  The Trinidad piping-guan, the true endemic of Trinidad birding, is only found on Trinidad in one area now. Habitat destruction is not the issue.  Poaching is.  To get to the birds, we drove through miles of beautiful rain forest along the Trinidadian coast. Many of the small villages were isolated in areas that were difficult to drive.  The road was in very bad shape and it took us several hours to get to the village where there is still a stable population. 

The unspoiled beauty of Grande Riviere

We waited for an hour in the rain.  I was losing hope and then the rain stopped and a bird hopped up onto a branch.  The Trinidad piping-guan!!!! And not just one but 12!!!

Trinidad piping-guan

I put my umbrella away and began documenting the birds sipping from the rain water collected in the bromeliad cups at sunrise.  They stayed for about an hour and then disappeared into the forest to forage around the ground for food.  After seeing these birds, I felt good.  The trip in my mind was a success.  In Trinidad, there are a few species that carry the country's name.  The Trinidad Motmot was once part of the Blue-crowned Motmot complex.  I saw and heard the birds but in very dark rain forest settings.  There is the Trinidad Euphonia which is found in northeastern South America.  So while the Euphonia is listed as an endemic, it's not the same as the Trinidad Motmots or piping-guans which are ONLY located on Trinidad. 

My focus was ONLY on Trinidad because there was so much to see here.  Tobago is another trek one day.  And I plan on going with others to find that island's specialty birds. However, with that said, it is SUPER cheap to go from Trinidad to Tobago.  It's 50 bucks round trip and like a bus terminal, you just wait in the airport to get on their hourly scheduled flights.  No reservations needed unless it's a major holiday. 

The superstar bird I connected with the most was the Golden-crowned Manakin.  It has a one high pitched note that I was able to replicate myself.  Throughout my stay I was able to call them from the forest.  I'd hear one in the woods and then I'd respond.  And within moments the bird would be looking right at me.  I even called one to the deck of Asa Wright.  I heard it and then told the photographers to get ready.  And for a brief moment, the Golden-headed Manakin showed.  Manakins are life.  My license plate on my car says Manakin.  In the tropics I would study this group of birds more if I lived there.  In Arizona, I study sparrows. 

Golden-crowned Manakin

The last of the greats in Trinidad was a visit to the Oilbird colony in the caves.  They come up as rare on ebird because Trinidad is their northern most range.  Oilbirds are like potoos, owls and other nightjars in that they feed by night.  But unlike these other night birds, the Oilbird is the only flying fruit eater of the forest. They communicate much like bats but if you heard them in the caves during the day, you'd swear there were monsters lurking inside the darkness.  Their "growls" are quite intimidating. 

I've included this little informational video on these birds from the Asa Wright grounds.  While the narrator is speaking, listen to the sounds in the background.  Every year, the team surveys the caves and counts the birds. Several have trackers and at first many had believed that these oilbirds were faithful to these caverns but from a conversation I had with one of the guides, they've discovered that these oilbirds will fly as far as Venezuela for several weeks to feed. 

In the darkness at "5, 4, 3, 2, 1", our guide, Yosanna gave us a cue to be ready with our cameras. Then there was indirect light on the bird. And at "5, 4, 3, 2, 1" the light went off the bird. Several growls could be heard from deep inside the cavern. 

Oilbird

These birds were surprisingly large! Today they are listed as "least concern" but still protected as their specific habitat, caves, need to be preserved. In the video, it's mentioned that their numbers had decreased due to people taking the babies from the nest.  What I'm about to write will sound barbaric but it's what people did. If you don't want the gruesome details, just skip to the next pic. People from days yonder would collect the babies that are much larger than the adults. Their body fat is made mostly of palm oil(one of their food sources).  Their heads would be cut off and the the people would light the birds up.  It is said that the light would last 3-4 hours long.  They would also use the oil to cook as well.  

This was the last of my true target birds.  Everything else was just a fun find.  On this gorgeous trail into the cave area, it began to rain.  I wore all my proper birding clothes and even with all the proper preparation, I managed to slip into a spiny palm and stab myself good.  I brought an umbrella and I wore hiking shoes with grips.  There were railings on certain parts of the trail but there were also poisonous tarantulas living inside the hollows of the rails.  And unlike the tarantulas here in Arizona, they would attack if you got too close. This hike was the last "deep" hike into the forest as the last wave of chiggers killed my legs.  They have sulfur powder for you to put on before hiking but it didn't work for moi.  Long pants prevent much of the biting but I was still bit up pretty bad. There is something about my blood, even with sprays and powders and the proper gear, that bugs love.  

Gail survived.  She was a trouper. Her focus was photography and being from Canada, she was challenged by the humid and slickery conditions of the Trinidad climate. 

Birding is not easy. I mean, it can be, but often, it is challenging both mentally and physically. The Oilbird trek is an easy to moderate one depending on the rain. We had a really nice lady with asthma almost pass out.  She slipped on the trail but friend and Asa Wright guide Yosanna came to the rescue. I felt safe with Yosanna as she is a snake person. Many times Fer-de-lance vipers hang out on that trail camouflaged among the leaf litter.  Yosanna's eyes scanned our path to the cavern. If anyone would step on a snake, it would be me.  I've almost done it twice over the years.  Had it not been for others stopping me, I might have stepped on the poor things. 

During the rainy season, always pack an umbrella

So wherever you go, always check for the "special" birds like the endemics or endangered species.  Some places are easier than others to see certain species. Every place has their "superstars".  With a little research and luck, you'll hopefully get to observe them in the wild.  Sometimes, you work with others.  And other times, you work alone. That's the beauty of birding. 

I have one more write coming up from Trinidad on another cool hotspot.  Then we'll be heading to Mexico to investigate a recent killing of a jaguar just across the border.  He was known as the "Huachuca" jaguar.  That makes TWO illegally poached situations both in Arizona and Mexico.  Then it's off to Maui, Hawaii where we'll search for some of the fun birds found on that island. In August, I'll be guiding 2 day treks with Tucson Audubon's Southeast Birding Festival.  I'll be back teaching again and juggling my dual lives. There's so much in store for this year so stay tuned for more!  Next week, it's Nariva Swamp.  Until next time.....

Look at my hair!!!  I'm a huge disaster!  The humidity and rain just killed my "look"  Yosanna, however, remains fashionably cool.  But no matter what, the birds and company are most always excellent!