Turtle Power!

Hawksbill Turtle

A misstep in our journey to Panama? I'd like to think not, but it was not the highlight like everyone thought it was going to be. Originally, we had planned an entire week here, but it was cut short due to several factors.  But before I begin this post, I need to say that it was an incredible experience for the brief amount of time we were there.  I don't regret coming here as we did accomplish our mission.  After our trip from Bastimentos, we stayed in the Bocas del Toro area and headed for the overgrown and neglected Soropta Canal towards Chiriqui Beach which is home to a turtle conservation program by ANAM.  The place, like the people working for the program, seemed worn down and indifferent.  The buildings were falling apart and not well maintained.  I had an experience with a pier that collapsed from under me while yet another part of it had completely fallen down. In fact, the pier had more personality than the workers did. Although I did like one of the researchers.  She was from Costa Rica and had warned me to walk on the edge of the pier. Her first time on this rickety thing resulted in falling into the swampy area.  I snapped a pic below of this rotted nightmare. Secretly I kind of loved it. It would also be a sign of what was to come. There were two things about this planned stay that made it difficult.  One was natural and the second was unfortunate.  The first was the difficulty of the infamous "chitras" or tiny little flies that will bite you up and down when you least expect it.  It was here that our team suffered the most.  One night, we incurred over a 100 bites on each of our bodies.  If you do go turtle watching, make sure you bring long sleeves to protect against these nasty critters.  And the second?  The staff.  There seemed to be an unwelcoming vibe going on as if we weren't wanted there.  So why have volunteers come and help?  The lead director was alright.  We had to ask her questions though about the turtles to get any answers.  The other underpaid people, were reserved and suspicious.  Two young men were inappropriate as one of them opened a shower door on my female counterpart to "sneak a peak".  So yes...there was a creepy element to the place as well:) And they wonder why no one was coming to volunteer anymore? Last year they had too many people helping out, but this year we were only the second tiny group to arrive....and the last.    My other friend completely shut down and within two days, we left. My only issue was the attitude of the place.  Most of these people didn't care for the extra help nor was it wanted. I wish someone would have told us this before we got there.  We got the hint and left.  There are a lot of better volunteer turtle programs out there, this place was not one of them.  It's too bad because there are a lot of turtles to see! So let's talk about that:)

The pier that went on forever and almost cost me a leg!!:)

 Traveler tips.  Bring a long sleeved shirt and pants.  No white lights at night....only red.  Bring plenty of water.  Also consider wearing water shoes.  The beaches are full of driftwood and other dead things like a caiman's carcass:)  Our trek was quite lengthy at around 5 hours from 10 PM to 3 AM.  Three shifts were assigned throughout the night.  The hiking was a bit treacherous at times as we hiked through jungles and steep cliffs where the ocean met.  Again, this isn't for the faint of heart.  

 Always wet and humid, it was extremely important to hang up clothes when there was an opportunity or suffer the wrath of nastiness.

 This building was the main headquarters for the turtle team.  Rain water was collected for cleaning dishes and drinking. The upstairs was for the director and other members of their team.  Meals were served at 8 AM, 12 PM, and 5 PM.  Plates would sit on the counter already prepared....sometimes for quite awhile.  Yum!

 This building was where we "slept" even though our treks happened at night searching for turtles. Pretty pic....not so much inside:)

 The pic above is a good example of what you'll find on a beach here.  There is a lot of debris and that can make walking at night tricky.

 The morning light arrives and makes for finding baby turtles a bit easier as they escape their nests.

Run!  Crabs start coming out of their holes as they sense the vibrations on the sand.  Pic by Desiree Hanson

"Run!  There are crabs awaiting you wanting to eat you alive.  I heard they love the eyes.  Watch out for birds flying above you.  If you make it before sunrise, you should be able to avoid them."  I'm not going to paint a beautiful pic here of what these little turtles have to go through as they leave their nests.  As the team finds the hatchlings, they will go to the nest and wear their rubber gloves to help these little babies out to sea.  Why gloves?  Bacteria and um...maggots from the hatched eggs.  Sorry for that image, but it's pretty gross.  However, a lot of turtles make it out to sea because of these dedicated people. No matter what I may think about them; they did do their jobs.

Pic of leatherback.  If this baby grows to full size, the only predator s/he will have to look out for is of the human variety. Pic by Desiree Hanson

And the pics?  The amazing discoveries?  I wasn't able to snap photos because we walked in the darkness.  Plus you don't want to disturb a mother laying eggs in her nest.  Most of the action happens at night plus it's hot and muggy.  My camera would have been toast from the extreme moisture.  Thankfully, Desiree had her smaller phone/camera with her. Therefore, I locked it up in my suitcase.  I had to remember, "anything that's worth the effort will reward you with wonderful results".....and there was a lot of effort for this leg of the trip.  Here's the good stuff.  While walking on the beach, I noticed things glowing green behind me.  In the darkness, all I could see were green lights sparkling in the ocean or the sand when an area was disturbed. It reminded me of Avatar.  How would we know if a turtle was on the beach?  Well, we found out quickly enough.  Trailer sized tracks swerved from the ocean onto the beach for several meters. We traced the tracks and flashed our red lights twice to indicate to the team that a turtle had been spotted. The lead researcher led us to.........the largest turtle I have ever seen in my life!  I couldn't believe my eyes.  It all looked so fake. The turtle was nearly as tall(6 feet) as I was and just as wide at 4 feet:)  LOL!!  It was a leatherback and she was groaning as she dug her nest out from the sand.  The whole process took around 45 minutes to happen.  She dug her nest and laid her eggs.  We watched and waited and were attacked by lots and lots of sand flies.  Then the eggs came......113 total.  Everyone watched and added up the endless stream of eggs coming from the female.  There were 82 turtle eggs total while 31 smaller eggs were added for climate control once the Mother Leatherback covered the nest.  Did you know that the temps will determine the sex for all the eggs? I didn't know any of this.  During the incubation process, warmer temps will create a nest of females and cooler temps will create males. If the temp is around 85 degrees, a mixed nest of male and female will develop. Any female turtles that survive will return back to that nesting spot.  Males will never come back to land once they make it into the ocean.  Here is some video taken from the early dawn hours by Desiree Hanson as a baby leatherback leaves the nest.  This little guy made it to the Caribbean as did many others.

 It was frustrating for me to see several nests dug up by either human poachers or dogs.  A farmer's dog roamed the beach one night and destroyed 2 nests!!!  All eggs gone!  The ANAM team spoke with the farmer and now the dog is on the leash.  Human poachers are the worst.  It is accepted freely that eggs are okay to eat by Panamanians.  It is getting better as word is spreading to people but the poachers are still out there.  We luckily didn't see anyone.  All marine turtles are endangered...some critically. While this trip was a physical and mental challenge for all of us, it was also worthwhile.  If you are prone to mosquito attacks in your own hometown, be forewarned.  This little trip to the beach can have its setbacks. Our guide and research also suggested this place was pretty rough. Turtle nesting begins in May and ends July 15th...or at least that's when the funding stops:)  Until tomorrow.....

A Tree That Goes the Distance....

I took a pic of this Walking Tree in the Amazon

Trees.  No matter where you live, trees are sure to be found.  The forests of trees, the solitary tree of the desert, sporadic trees that dot the landscape like stars in the sky, urban soldier trees that line our roads like a fortress wall, the fruit orchards....well the list does on and on.  Whether they are in the background or foreground, trees make a statement.  Whenever I am in rain forest, I am always amazed at all the magnificent varieties of trees out there that I don't know anything about......the Lipstick tree, the May tree, and the Tree of the Forest are just some examples that come to my mind from my latest trip.  I also discovered that not only are there walking trees but....walking palms?  Yes.  People may say impossible, but I tell you it's true.  Look at the above pic.  Notice how the roots are above ground?  The roots will help the tree search for light or water.  In a rain forest, this is a very good skill to have as competition between plants is fierce.  It doesn't move super fast, but it can move several feet in one year.  How does it work?  New roots grow from where the tree or palm needs to be.  Older roots detach from the tree so that it can move anywhere it wants.  

It looks like this tree is escaping into the field from the rain forest.

The Walking Palm or Red Mangrove are considered plants that can "move" in search of water. Many of the walking plants are found in the rainforests of Central and South America.  But like the Ents from Lord of the Rings, these plants are slooooooow moving...well by human standards:)  Until tomorrow..... 

Identity Crisis

The Ngöbe are very active on these islands and can be seen everywhere you go. It was great to see that they have found a way to make their way in this world among the crazy tourism projects sprouting up all over.  

Ever meet someone who hasn't figured it out yet? Maybe you're one of them.  I'd like to think that those are good traits because I'm still figuring it out myself.  When we moved from Coiba Island National Park and headed over to Bastimentos National Park in the Bocas del Toro region, I got the sense that things had changed a bit....and I got the sense of "uncertainty". We passed near La Amistad National Park as we headed over to these hot and tropical islands on the Caribbean side of Panama. The road trip was wonderful because we entered some cloud forest which cooled things down quite a bit before we descended back into the moist soupy temps.  I pulled out my kindle and read looking out my window from time to time. We passed many Ngöbe villages. Most of their homes were on stilts and high above ground.    

We spotted two 3 toed sloths clinging to the mangroves in Bastimentos National Park

Eventually, we got to the port of Almirante which was the hopping off point for Bocas Town. It was quick and easy.  The boat ride was about 4 bucks and so we shot off to Isla Colon.  Within 25 minutes, we arrived at a colorful Bocas Town.  Most of the old homes were painted in hues of blues, pinks, yellows and greens.  This place definitely had a lot of history and charm.  We spent several hours on the main street seeing a lot of tourists for the first time since Panama City.  Bocas is a place for everyone.  If you like to party, there are bars.  If you like to shop, there are stores.  If you like nature, there are national parks.  If you like snorkeling, they have pristine coral reefs. If you just want to chill, tranquilo is the mood you'll find:)

Crabs everywhere. Look all over.  I spotted this quite large crustacean at night.

We ate lunch on the pier and waited for our wonderful guide Karen to take us to Isla Bastimentos where we would spend several nights.  Bocas Town had a cool vibe, but we were looking forward to escaping the tourist scene and exploring a new park.  Another 15 minutes later, we arrived on the secluded part of Bastimentos island.  The place we stayed was La Loma Inn which was located near mangrove waters full of jellyfish and caiman.  It was absolutely beautiful as we hiked our way on a wooden path up the hill towards our place. The lodge was located on the edge of the National Park and had lots of wildlife like sloths, the red frog, butterflies and plenty of birds.

This island is really interesting.  I titled the post "Identity Crisis" because of the development going on.  Bastimentos is quite beautiful and because of this attraction, tourism is wanting its share of this 20 square mile island.  Over half the island is covered in primary and secondary rain forest.  The other portion of the island is covered by nastiness. A little suburb of homes have popped up around the infamous beaches where surfing is premium.  It was irritating going from the lush green and secluded parts of the island to the noisy and trashy beach known as Red Frog.  There were young hopeful surfers and drunk nasty tourists hanging out all over the place. At one point, we needed to catch a truck back to the pier and this gross guy had women all over him who were just as drunk.  Prostitution?  My eyebrow went up which usually means that my gut was dead on about what I had observed. I've learned to trust that instict over the years. So I got off the truck and hiked back to the pier on my own with several newly made friends.  It's amazing the stupidity that will take over certain places of this world.  Luckily we didn't stay long, but we did get a glance at what was going on with a part of the island.  Reckless idiots shot off on their motor boats as they ignored the 20 km signs in the mangrove area.  As a result of their careless action from just the pier, several jellyfish were killed.  We, along with one of the Ngöbe guides, had also found a dead sloth on the beach which was very uncommon. He was clearly upset by the days discoveries. Several kids had the endemic red frogs in their hands charging tourists a quarter to sneak a peak at these beautiful creatures.

These ecosystems are fragile.  Watching a piece of rainforest made me wish we protected more places because the animal and plant life was phenomenal. Our ecolodge was run by 2 people from England and  several people from the nearby Ngöbe community. There was a small cacao plantation that made some delicious chocolate.  They have also been planning on getting their butterfly farm back up and running again. 

A river converts into fresh water as we leave the mangrove forests.

Speaking with many of the people, there seemed to be a general consensus that the island and communities were trying to figure out how they were going to divide things up.  Due to recession, progress has been slowed for now.  The entire Bocas region ten years ago was a secret, but today it has been discovered by the tourism industry and development has taken off.  Capitalists see lots of money signs.  

However, we enjoyed our stay on Bastimentos and there's plenty to do.  We went to Nivida Cave where we discovered bats galore!!  We hiked through water up to our necks. Guides will take you into this dark place so don't enter alone.  Don't bring your cameras as they'll get wet and if you do, PLEASE do not use flash because there are a lot of bats on the cave ceiling. Your guide will provide you with helmets.  Make sure you wear swim trunks and watershoes.  There are plenty of crabs and other scary looking insects all over the cavern walls....also watch out for bat guano:)  I stuck my hands in a pile:) Isn't it supposed to be a good fertilizer for plants?  And aren't they using this stuff on our skin now?

I also met several birders on this trip.  This trip, for me, was more interesting botanically as I read a lot about several tropical trees that grew around the area.  We learned about the cacao plant as well as the Lipstick tree.  Karen's husband Steve, our host at La Loma, knew a lot about plants because he is/was a landscape architect.  We had some great discussions at dinner and they provided me with some wonderful reading material.  I also really liked both of them because they were scifi/fantasy geeks like me....so we got along very well:)

Note the colors at Bocas Town

Apparently there was a funny issue for a couple of my female friends on this trip. They had noticed several ladies with tight shirts.  A question, which I never thought about until that time, popped up.:)  Should women wear bras when they are so uncomfortable to use in humid and nasty weather? The conservative ones definitely agreed that a "nip and tuck" was in order.  However, the other ladies thought it was okay.  I wish the topic had never been brought up because I don't like those things in the back of my mind while I'm trying to have a conversation with someone.  It's like someone who has food on their face.  Do you tell them?  I would, but that's just me.  As for this sensitive issue, I think it's okay.  Traveler tip.  Be ready for many different conversations with many different people during the course of your trip. They can be very educational:) 

If you go to Bastimentos, bring plenty of  bug repellent. The mosquito spray doesn't work with the chitras. There was a coconut/citrus oil we used that kept the chitras off of us.  They sell it on Isla Colon at one of the hotels. These sand flies will ruin your vacation so investigate possible solutions to keep these irritating bugs off of you. Mosquitos are the least of your worries:) We ran out of this magical lotion during our turtle conservation program and then we were slowly attacked on what would be the most difficult of our journey to Panama.  More of that coming soon....

I like both of these pics a lot and couldn't figure out which one to choose so I picked both of them:)

the Entrance to Nivida Cave

The Red Frog

Endemic. Unique. One of a kind. Only found in one area.  One island.  Today we're going to the area known as Bocas Del Toro!  But specifically to the island known as Bastimentos.  I'll write about this island tomorrow, but today it's all about the red frog!

The province of Bocas Del Toro has several large and many smaller islands that are surrounded by the Caribbean waters.  It is one of the top areas for tourists, naturalists, and the indigenous communities of the Ngöbe-Buglé.  And guess what?  The Smithsonian also has a research station on one of their own islands studying these amphibians:)

These little guys were all over the place chirping and hopping on trees, rocks, and hanging out in bromeliads where they were laying eggs or fertilizing them.  It was really amazing to see so many frogs around one area.  This strawberry red frog is endemic to Bastimentos.  In fact each of the islands in the archipelago of Bocas Del Toro has its own colored frog which ranges from a gold color, blue color, red body with blue legs, etc.  You see, on Bastimentos, the red frog is symbolic.  There is even a beach with the name Red Frog where drunk people and surfers reside.  Before you cross the bridge onto this beach, you'll find several local kids with red frogs in their hands.  Traveller tip from Rohrer.  Do not encourage these kids to do this.  They will show you the frog and then expect you to pay them a quarter.  Many times these kids will remove the frogs from their natural area, and being that they(the males) are extremely territorial, will have a difficult time readjusting to being released somewhere else.....if they even survive with all the handling that they have to endure all day long.  Please don't encourage this behavior if you go and visit.  PLUS Red Frog Beach is a tourist trap unless you are going there to surf.  Luckily we weren't on that part of the island...just passing through:)  For a frog that is supposedly toxic, you have to wonder:)

Red poison-dart frog (Dendrobates pumilio)

 In Arizona, we have several frogs and toads, but it's not everyday you get to see them.  All we had to do is step out of our cabin and within a few steps, there would be several hopping around.  It is my hope that this island takes better care of itself as tourism has carelessly carved a chunk of land from the pristine rain forest that still covers most of it.  The recession put an end to the construction happening at the resort leaving only a few homes near the Red Frog Beach instead of several hundred as had been originally planned.

The Bastimentos color morph of Dendrobates pumilio or "Bastis" typically comes in three morphs, being either red, yellow, or white, with black spots on the back and legs. They are all found together on Isla Bastimentos in Panama, and have been reported to be true breeding to a certain degree, despite the ease of mixing with varieties.  The most important part is that they have the plants to lay their eggs.  Bromeliads found around the rain forest all contained at least one of these beautiful red frogs.

                                 

They eat smaller anthropods like formicine ants and other tiny insects. If you head to Bastimentos or other islands in the Bocas del Toro province, keep your eyes open for these colorful gems.  Below is a video I snapped from a trail.  More on Bastimentos tomorrow....

Los Manglares

I'm sorry.  I just had to use the Spanish word for mangroves...."Los Manglares".  It's fun for me to say over and over.  Let's just say this word is one of my favorites from my list of Spanish words that are much more interesting than their English counterparts:)  Say these words...."pantuflas"(pahn-two-flas) or "bufandas"(boo-fa-n-daas).  You see?  It's much more fun than saying "slippers" or "scarves".  Well, if you haven't guessed by the title today, it's all about mangroves.  This very important plant was all around us during our visits to the national park system of Panama.  In fact, today's post begins our journeys to the Bocas del Toro region in the Caribbean. Specifically, we focused our energy on the confused island of Bastimentos.  I'll write more about this place later.  Today, we're going to explore the importance of mangroves and the difference between white and red mangroves. 

I knew I was in a grove of mangroves the minute I saw the murky and smelly waters.  Consider them a natural barrier to protect land from storms and hurricanes.  Without them, beaches wash away and precious marine life disappears with it.  With mangroves around, the world's endangered coral reefs flourish and our inlands are a much safer place.  PLUS the groves harbor diverse populations of mammals, birds, crabs, fish, reptiles, amphibians, and insects!  These areas are rich in nutrients and provide a lifeline to our Mother Earth. Today, they are threatened by development and pollution.   "Mangrove foliage, however, has declined by nearly half over the past several decades because of increasing coastal development and damage to its habitat. As the habitat has changed, ever-smaller quantities of mangrove-derived detritus are available for formation and export of dissolved organic matter to the ocean. The researchers speculate that the rapid decline in mangrove extent threatens the delicate balance and may eventually shut off the important link between the land and ocean, with potential consequences for atmospheric composition and climate." Source: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2006/02/060227123154.htm Ahh, but who cares?  Let's build that comfortable hotel with its' a/c and wireless options.  It won't be us who suffers the consequences, but our children and grandchildren.  By that time, it should be quite the show.  People fighting over limited resources because the world population kept increasing......the sins of our father(and mothers) indeed.  Maybe I should cut back on my pinot noir:)  Such talk of doom and gloom!

I loved all the crabs running around the mangroves.  Many of them hung out in the soil and on the actual mangrove roots.

"Direct Human Importance

In addition to benefiting the natural ecosystems of the surrounding area, mangroves are also extremely important to human communities as well. Traditionally, they have been sustainably used for food production, medicines, fuel wood, and construction materials. Many indigenous coastal residents rely on mangroves to sustain their traditional cultures. In this way, the mangroves' ability to act as habitat to many possible food sources, as well as it's ability to remain stable while growing tall and strong, are very important to human communities as well. In addition to this, mangrove forests also act as a buffer zone between the open ocean and the land. This not only protects the shores from damage, but also its many inhabitants-including humans. Mangroves protect the coastal land areas from life threatening erosion and siltation problems, preventing a great deal of property damage and sometimes even human death. Finally, the mangroves' ability to treat effluent, discussed above, is also very important for the local communities. Most of the substances that the mangroves treat are human made. Thus, the mangroves are acting as a filter system for the local communities, keeping their ocean waters free of pollution and thus their fish and other food sources free of contaminants. All of these "eco-services" that the mangroves provide, free of charge to the local communities, have a tremendous economic value for all who are dependent on them. Unfortunately, although the hardy mangroves have withstood fierce storms and heavy winds for thousands of years, they are now being devastated by human business and industry." Source:  http://serendip.brynmawr.edu/biology/b103/f00/web3/hayesconroyj3.html

 So what's my personal opinion about all of this?  The mangroves are very important.  I see how they tie both the ocean and mainland together.  Without these buffers, the rough waves would destroy the calm dark and smelly waters which are natural nurseries for baby fish, jellyfish, caiman, crabs, and many other animals.  It would be a tragedy to lose these magnificent groves.  The destruction of these plant barriers would kill Panama's coral reefs.  As the Amazon rainforest is to our Earth's atmosphere; coral reefs are to our world's ocean ecosystem.  I'd hate to think of the consequences.

So what was it like floating through mangrove forest?  It was peaceful. There were bugs and lots of them.  On Coiba, we saw so many birds and crocodiles.  In Bocas del Toro, we saw a slew of sloths, crabs, and jellyfish.  The waters were full of secretive caiman.  On this particular "river", it was fun to watch the transformation from where salt water and fresh water met.  Once the salt water disappeared, the mangrove section would vanish and be replaced with palms and ferns.  So what kinds of mangroves are there?  During our boat ride, we saw two varieties....the white mangrove and the red mangrove.  There are 3 species of mangrove which also includes the black, but we never saw that particular variety during our visit.

The Red Mangrove

-live in deepest salt-water of the three, going from a few inches to over a foot deep.

-have large prop-roots, often times called "walking roots", with thick lenticels for gas exchange.
-named "red" because they produce chemicals called tannins that turn the water and mud a rusty color.
-leaves are broadly-elliptical and the largest of the three (about 3 to 5 inches long).
-viviparous propagules can survive in salt water for over a year.

Plainly written.....the roots look like they are "walking" in the water.

The White Mangrove

-live farthest away from the water of the three, just above the water level

-sometimes have pneumatophores but they are usually less common. When pneumatophores are present they are usually less prominent than on the black.
-named "white" because of the whitish appearance of the bark.
-leaves are rounded elliptical, have two small glands at leaf base, and are more-yellow green in color.
-viviparous propagules can survive in salt water for at least 1 month. Basicially, the roots come up from the soil instead of "walking" in the water.

There you have it.  Magical and fun.  Mangroves are a definite MUST SEE on a trip to the wild.  Tomorrow,  begins the first write of Bocas Del Toro!

  

The Forgotten Garden

A small river runs into the ocean from the forest.  By night, the ocean covers this beach and invites creatures like saltwater crocs to enter the smaller island.

I sit today on the smaller island known as Coibitas off the main and larger Coiba Island.  I'm enjoying the breeze because as of late, we've been hiking nonstop into the muddy and sometimes dangerous paths of the Coiba forests. It's fun!  We've had to watch for saltwater crocs, keep our camelpacks full of water, and dry out our sweaty clothes which weren't usually dry due to a random rain event or the constant humidity that just hung in the air.  When I look from where I'm sitting, there's nothing but islands covered in emerald green rain forest which goes as far as the eye can see.  These islands harbor large areas of pristine coral reefs and are protected by the fragile mangrove forests that line the island coasts. This area is a protected corridor and of huge importance to marine life that are teeming with fish, whales, turtles, sharks, and many other sea creatures.

A guide and boat are essential to appreciate the large expanse of Coiba National Park.

I keep a lookout for a croc as we had found tracks on the beach near where I am sitting.  These huge reptiles are sneaky and blend in with their surroundings.  It's when you least expect it that they appear from out of nowhere.  Yesterday, during my mangrove shoot, my heart almost stopped when I saw one of these animals.  He was only a couple meters from me and I won't forget that experience anytime soon.  I'm glad our guide, Javier was with us on these treks.  To fully appreciate this trip, you'll need a guide and boat to get to some of these places which are difficult to reach. So today I keep my eyes open as I begin my story about the Shah and his forgotten garden.

The ladder to cross the stream into the forgotten garden. Scary!

Almost every island has an interesting history with it.  Coibitas is no exception.  Our story takes place in the 1970's.  The last of the Iranian Shahs purchased this island for his tropical getaway. Most of Coibita(then called La Ranchería) was untouched except for the place where the Shah built his home and created his fruit garden.  He grew peaches, cashews, water apples, and citrus trees. Some of these trees have a difficult time standing the tropical onslaught of ocean air.  The garden was tucked away beyond the palm groves past a creek with a sketchy ladder connecting us to the garden.

Old fruit trees covered with moss and bromeliads

The Shah loved his peach trees and today several of them can be seen growing around the island in random areas.  Eventually, the Shah became sick and died.  His garden forgotten and left to the demise of Mother Nature.  His belongings were passed onto his daughter who then sold the island for one dollar to the Smithsonian Institute. Or so the story was told.  Today the island is protected by UNESCO.  The Shah's home is now a research station for scientists from all over the world to stay.  Today's guest was a researcher from Germany studying sharks around the reef area. Two men are working to keep several areas tidy. Several buildings have fallen apart and are reminders that there were others who once lived here.

The Jesus Christ lizard.  Why this name?  Because when it flees for safety, it will run across water on two legs. If you haven't seen this, you should youtube it.  It's really cool.

The fruit trees are overgrown with bromeliads and moss.  Many of them look terrible....especially the citrus trees. Mosquitos are everywhere. I stand among the trees and watch all the birds flying around the branches.  Several water apples are ready to pick, but no one is there to harvest the fruit. The owner dead.  And the image is eery giving me a moment's pause. What will our gardens look like after we're gone and no one is there to tend them?  More tomorrow......

Baby Woolly Mammoth Discovered!

Here's some exciting news coming out of the arctic.  Story reported by Greg Wilson at NBC New York. I have an interesting write coming up in October about bringing previously extinct species back from the dead.  It's an ongoing investigation with today's report adding one additional element that will come into question several months/years down the road.

"A man herding reindeer in Russia's Arctic found the perfectly-preserved, 40,000-year-old body of a baby woolly mammoth. The creature's carcass was sticking up out of the permafrost, local officials said. The discovery came in the same area a mammoth calf dubbed Lyuba was found four years ago, authorities told Reuters. They are sending out an expedition to examine the find and possibly recover it. "If it is true what is said about how it is preserved, this will be another sensation of global significance," expedition leader Natalia Fyodorova said in a statement on the Arctic Yamalo-Nenetsk region's website. Scientists hope to bring the remains to the regional capital Salekhard, where it would be stored in a cooler to prevent decomposition. Giant woolly mammoths have been extinct for at least 12,000 years. In the case of Lyuba, arctic ice kept the mammoth so well preserved that skin and organs were intact. She was named for the wife of the hunter who discovered her. Woolly mammoths grew to as much as 10 feet tall and eight tons. Some scientists believe it could be possible to bring the beast back from extinction is enough well-preserved genetic material can be taken from a preserved carcass. It is believed to be most directly related to the Asian elephant." Stay tuned for more on yet another report I found several months ago while doing some research.  It's quite fascinating. How will they do it?  In my opinion, I think scientists will start "grafting" the woolly mammoth genes on an Asian elephant.  My story about this will be coming up soon.   More on Panama tomorrow.  I'll be back in the desert starting September with reports from Tucson, the Presidio garden, and so much more.  Stay tuned and thanks for reading.   

Stranded

Written on the tiny Isla Granito de Oro.  11:30 AM  19/6/2011

"I'm stranded on the tiny Isla Granito de Oro.  Basically, it's a hill in the middle of the emerald green ocean full of crabs and frigatebirds.  A patch of forest stands behind me as I sit on this very high traffic beach full of hermit crabs.  As I sit in the warm sand, hundreds of them have changed their course towards me! However, they never get brave enough to crawl on me.  Curious little creatures!  My friends are snorkeling and I'm enjoying the peace and quiet. I take my camera around this tiny island and snap shots here and there.

I can't imagine it would be a lot of fun getting stranded on an island because it's hot and humid with very little shade.  And the shade that does exist is within the thick vegetation full of critters!  There's lots of water, but it's all the wrong kind.  Too salty. I sit under a mangrove tree watching the thousands of hermit crabs climb all over as they scavenge the beach for anything edible...or find a bigger shell to call home. 

I physically walked around this little island in a matter of 10 minutes.  The center part has a large portion of trees. Another side is all rocks full of large black crabs which connects to a smaller grassy knoll.  The tide is low, but when it's high, the large sandy beach disappears. While we've been here in these briefest hours, I'm shocked at how much wildlife I've already seen. My friends are witnessing the great coral reefs around these islands, but I'm also getting a fantastic look above ground.  We've spent months planning for this trip looking specifically for isolated places in Panama.  Many of these trips require an experienced guide to help us fully see everything in these far reaching paradises.

This kind of trip isn't for everyone.  It's only a matter of time before I can't do these things anymore.  I like getting older and I love travel.  But I'm also beginning to like comfort more now as well.  Certain countries require things from the traveller.  There's a reason why these places are isolated!  I'm not saying that this particular type of trip will soon end as I still have another 10 years before I retire into the European style travel:)  That's why I did Machu Picchu in 2008.  The Inca Trail was tough for me, but when I saw 80 year olds hike past me, I was motivated to push my limitations.   But our guide, Javier, told us why many birders won't come to this pristine and fabulous feathered kingdom.....it's too wild.  I understand most of you birders because I do like my bed and breakfasts, but you need to know that this Coiba island experience was amazing:).  You'll see different kinds of birds here that you wouldn't spot on Pipeline Road in Gamboa....like the Scarlet Macaw!!  Javier is an avid birder who is a magnet for these feathered creatures as he whistles his magical tunes.....and they come.

A hermit crab snaps me back from my ramblings.  Who knows if I'll ever be back here again?  But it doesn't matter because I'm here now....on this little island of gold."

Off to snorkeling above....

The rocky side of the island which is covered by water during the high tide.

Shells, among other things, are protected in the national park system.  So no souvenirs for home except pictures:)