Three Betrayals You Will Know

Canyon Wren

As the Canyon Wren inspected my binoculars, I pondered the meaning of it all.  Somehow we made it.  And thank the bird gods we did.  I'm not sure what we would have done had we been alone. 

This trip showed signs of trouble from the start.  Kathy's truck met a river for a road.  We tried to get around the river but got stuck in the mud.  And later it happened again! But this time in the Cocospera river!  Had it not been for Jim's tow cable, I'm not sure we would have gotten out.  

Violet-crowned Hummingbird

I looked over and saw the Canyon Wren again.  This time on the backpack.  We took our walk and again I counted birds once more for this ranch.

As we hiked down the trail, we noticed a new road cutting through pristine desert habitat.  This ranch?  Was it even protected anymore?

I still noticed the birds.  They were all still there. But something was different this time.  

female Varied Bunting

They checked their jaguar cams.  I recorded.  This time we noticed mesquites cut down. The cameras picked up service workers from the state doing the cutting. On this ridge, where Jaguars survey their large territory, we witnessed the incredible Sky Islands.  We could see the Santa Rita Mountains in Arizona from Mexico!  This spot was magical as we could see every major sky island. I now could piece together the bird migration puzzle.  It all made sense. 

And this time around, there were more cattle. Once upon a time, the ranch owner was sensitive to the number of cattle on his land.  But it seems he has lost this battle as well.

The old couches sat outside on the patio now as if to be taken away at some point.  There the Canyon Wren sat. 

I watched an adult Cliff Swallow feed the baby. 

Cliff Swallow

Nothing lasts forever.  There comes a breaking point when one says enough is enough.  Not only was the ranch going through some changes; so was I. At my work, a friend betrayed my trust.  After 16 years of working together, it was a hard slap in the face and it broke my heart. It's now strictly business.  My life has become a complicated and wonderful thing.  And the same is happening for my other half.  I share my adventures with people and they wonder how I am able to balance it all together.  It's hard.  But I have kept this motto ever since I first heard the words from Principal Art Johnson. "Work hard; Play hard." And it can be done with the proper management of time.  AND it's also the same reason that I have written in the past that we are only given a certain amount of time.  Do we spend our time living in the negative moments?  Or do we live our lives to the fullest? 

Vermilion Flycatcher

I've now cut the last threads of negativity out of my life. Life changes. We change. When you can't trust a friend with personal information, they no longer are friends. 

At night, we walked muddy roads discovering more bugs than reptiles.  I thought more about betrayal. Maybe this is how the rancher also felt.  He thought he could trust the Mexican government to do the right thing.  He thought he could trust the conservation groups to keep his efforts going.  And in all his efforts, he kept running into obstacles. 

Wolf Spider

Several of us swallowed bugs.  Something big ran across my foot. The air was saturated with insects! Clouds of winged things formed around us under the starry sky.  They were in our hair, on our skin and in our mouths. It was quite the experience. Sometimes I shined my light on one of my friends and they couldn't figure out why they were getting attacked by all the bugs. I needed a good laugh to get through this hellish bug nightmare. We were walking through the poopy stream where the cattle were now hanging out. It was gross. 

Antlion

In the darkness, it's difficult to see with human eyes.  Thankfully our head lights illuminated these incredible alien looking bugs.  Our ears could detect Great Horned, Barn, Elf and Western screech-owls.  Eventually we hit the muddy river of a road where we first got stuck.  I was not walking through that mess again. 

Tarantula

Jim checked traps for snakes and other reptiles. This guy is fearless!  

A sleeping Pacific-slope Flycatcher

Meanwhile, I counted the sleeping birds in the trees while Tim and Robyn tried finding snakes climbing up those trees. 

Hummingbird migration was at full force.  

The Canyon Wrens jumped onto my chair.  I had a good laugh.  How many people struggle to see these wrens when they come to visit?  Sure, I often hear them but to have them come right up to me was a nice change. Talk about an armchair tick!

And I continued counting birds while running into more cattle.  No decision is ever simple.  More cattle equals more money.  It's obviously where the cash is made. But surely there is a way for conservation to be equally profitable beyond the hunting sector?

Wilson's Warbler

I came back and found these two wrens getting into more mischief.  At one point, someone left the truck door open and one of the birds went into the vehicle!!!  So I obsessed about the bird until it flew out.  

For years, I tried to believe that the ranch owner was trying to make a difference.  And I think at some point he did maybe try a little. During our last visit, we witnessed things on the ranch that seemed to be reversing the conservation trend. 

Blue Grosbeak

I've listened to the ranch owner tell stories about how the government and town were not pleased that he wasn't putting more cattle on the ranch.  And that whenever he tried to move forward in the various conservation areas, he was blocked by someone or something.  It must have been frustrating. 

Antelope Jackrabbit

And then there's my point of view.  I've been to the ranch when we didn't have electricity because he forgot.  Or he didn't tell us that he changed the gate lock even though he knew we were coming.  This last time?  He forgot to turn on the water AND we had to find a way around the gate because the locks were changed yet again. Then there were the bad conditions of the road. It wouldn't be so bad if people didn't have to pay money.  But they did. So how serious is he really about conservation work and attracting people to the ranch?  

I fear that soon there will be no one coming to do research at this ranch.  I understand that people need to survive and make money.  I also know that the people on our end work their tails off to do excellent research.  They have offered to help expand the organization but it has been met with lukewarm reception.  People like Kathy believe in this place.  She always has. 

Our glue, Ms. Kathy, can't keep this going forever. She has been the organizer for all these trips for so many years.  Both she and her daughter have spent MANY hours prepping for these trips so that people could experience the ranch.  It has been a magical journey and I've met some of the most incredible people.  But sadly, it looks like those days are coming to an end as the ranch owner ends his conservation attempts to protect the Cocospera Riparian area.

As I look out at the ranch one last time, I wonder what will happen. Only one weekend before this trip, I had heard a speaker talk about this rancher and what an amazing job they both had done creating this conservation friendly ranch. There were half truths spoken.  Old conversations with the ranch owner about this speaker suddenly surfaced. I watched the audience believe his every word.  In the back of my mind, I heard the rancher's voice.  And I listened intently to what this man had to say.  What the speaker didn't tell his audience was that he is not allowed back on that rancher's property anymore because he betrayed the rancher's trust. Again, the word "betray". To me, this speaks volumes about the relationship issues between conservation groups and ranchers.  I can't speak for the ranch owner as I have never been a ranch owner.  I've not been in his shoes boots, but I can tell you that I wouldn't want irresponsible people on my lands. 

Sleepy Orange

The people below continue to be optimistic and I will try my best to keep an open mind.  Some will keep trying for as long as they can. 

But here's the kicker.  Who speaks for the wildlife on this ranch?  Who will protect them if no one cares?  The bird gods must have heard my troubled thoughts because several days after our trek, I received a letter requesting the use of one of my photos I took on the ranch a couple years ago of the Crawford's gray shrew.  Jim was looking under wooden panels on a cold cold day and discovered this tiny mammal.  Perhaps these organizations will put Aribabi on the conservation map and help this ranch owner out?  Only time will tell.  How does that saying go?  One step forward; three steps back. 

I have watched "change" happen all around me in the desert. I've silently watched the major characters in conservation interact with their audiences and also between their egos.  Three Betrayals I have learned during this past month of August. A betrayal of land, friendship and intent. I remember a time before birding when everything was so black and white.  When birding entered my life, it fused itself into my being and changed everything.  And I changed.  I can't save the world but I can be the best citizen scientist possible.  I have to believe that we, as the shepherds of this planet, can do better. Until next time.....

The "Other" State

 The body grows tired, and my work gets mixed up in flowers, lizards, snakes, bats and bugs.  But onward I trekked with an amazing crew of wildlife trackers and herpers.  Being one of two birders, we safely entered the state of Sonora, Mexico which borders the southern part of Arizona. 

Flame Skimmer

We camped for several days and nights without electricity, air conditioning and other creature comforts.  And yet the rewards were higher on this trek than any other because we were in some remote areas around Sonora.  While the birds were in great numbers, they took a backseat on this trek.  

Pallid Bats

Some of the greatest mysteries still remain on the mountain tops of Northern Mexico.  Sonora is an amazing state full of surprises. As I've reported before, Arizona is a well birded state in most of the various regions.  In contrast, much of Sonora has not been ebirded. It's rather sad since it's all connected. Part of my job at our locale was to find birds and other rarities.  Birds like Green Kingfishers and Five-striped Sparrows are often seen in these places and this time was no different.  

I'm not a rough and rugged hiker as I do prefer the softer side of camping. And yes, camping can be fun and comfortable! One of my big dislikes for this time of year comes in the form of scaly fanged critters known as snakes. It makes birding a challenge! There were rattlesnakes and other venomous creatures hanging out in the thick grasses.  In one situation, I had a Black-tailed Rattler sound off with a loud "RAAAAATTTTLE!" and flee further back into the grasses!  I did my heebie jeebie dance and got away from the area.  The herper with me was sad that it had escaped. While I was freaking out, he was running after the snake!  Hopefully he didn't look back and see me doing my willy nilly freak out.  And yes, guys can admit that snakes freak them out.  Just don't kill them.  They are good to have around.....just not my personal space.  Herpers are a fascinating group of people.  Both birders and herpers are nerds in their own sense but I'll just say that one group is wilder than the other:)  Might have to challenge those stereotypes!

It was hard to ignore the many beautiful butterflies around the area. However our mission was to track Jaguars.  These elusive creatures had been found around several spots and so we went to check equipment around the various locations.  

Queen Butterfly

I am truly fascinated by this state.  This year Las Aventuras took you to Rocky Point, Sonora for a seabird adventure.  Now we're visiting the interior mountain region of the state.  It's a large area to cover and I hope to get further south for a closer look at the indigenous peoples and their tropical birds. 

Dark Buckeye

Finding a crew to go to Mexico is no easy task.  Not many Americans feel comfortable these days crossing the border.  And rightly so!  BUT crossing the border was a much safer option for me than staying near the border on the Arizona side to observe Five-striped Sparrows.  This year we ran into drug trafficking around the Ruby Road area and it was a bit unsettling. 

Africanized Bees!  Very dangerous when a swarm becomes upset.  Each year several people will die from their stings.

 One of my favorite things about the Sonoran desert is how wild and dangerous it all can be.  Poisonous critters, spiky cacti, heat and strange human varieties all inhabit this vast landscape.  Coming from Wisconsin, this place continues to fascinate me.  Every day I wake up in MY HOME, I think.....I live here!  I really really live here!  Purple sunsets.  Prickly cactus pads.  Sparkling hummingbirds.  Colorful lizards.  Outdoor dining.  Mountains.  Canyons.  It's all so beautiful and overwhelming at times.  And much of it is still so very wild. 

Ocotillo line a wash

The Sonoran desert enters a good portion of Mexico. Political lines, drug issues and very remote and rocky roads can make this area very undesirable to explore. And maybe language barriers:)  I'd love to piece together the "birdscape" puzzle between Arizona and the state of Sonora.  I'd get to use my Spanish and study birds.  Pretty awesome!

Southern Dogface

 While on this trek, a major discovery happened for me.  I glanced down on the ground and noticed this strange looking snake.  But it wasn't a snake.  Instinctively I knew this but it took me time to wrap my head around the creature I was staring at intently. Once my brain ID'd this lizard.....yes lizard......I did a secret herper lifer dance.  The move looks something like a snake wrapping itself around its prey. Not pretty at all.  There are not many lizards or snakes that inspire me to move in a positive manner, but the Madrean Alligator Lizard is like finding a Montezuma Quail!  Herpers and birders alike rejoice at these beauties.   Note their tiny tiny feet. 

Madrean Alligator Lizard

 With the recent monsoon rains, the canyon was ALIVE!  Imagine Julie Andrews singing the "Hills are Alive" running through the grasses and then getting bit by a venomous snake.  That's how green the mountains and canyons were!  Black and Turkey Vultures would quickly find her body and have a snack. Definitely not a Disney production:) Thankfully Julie never ran through THOSE grasses.

Common Lesser Earless Lizard

Most of the time, it's all very brown.  Yet with a wet rainy season, everything really greens up nicely!  All of this happens within a matter of a month!

The warbler migration has begun.  Most evident were the Nashville, MacGillivray's, Yellow and Wilson's Warblers dripping from the trees!  They were everywhere.  Blue Grosbeaks and Yellow-breasted Chats were also very abundant. 

Five-striped Sparrow

However, my mission this year was to observe Five-striped Sparrows and a Green Kingfisher.  I could not relocate the Rose-throated Becard.  Their nest was still present, but no one was home!

MacGillivray's Warbler

I am now home after a long weekend of satisfying work and bug bites! 

A special thank you goes out to Kathy Cooper and her daughter Mary Ann for making such wonderful meals.  It truly takes talent to work off the grid feeding a group of people without having the use of electricity.  Each meal was an amazing piece of art and our group was grateful for their hard work.  Kathy and Mary Ann, you both are one of a kind.  Thank you for organizing this spectacular event. 

Ares Metalmark

While it was a challenging weekend, we each completed our goals to help keep tabs on the wildlife in that area so that they stay protected.  We discovered Mountain Lions, Javelina, Coues Deer and so much more.  As for the Jaguars?  I hope they keep their secrets hidden from humans.  I know they are out there.  Once, 6 years ago, I came across one in the Amazon.  We briefly made eye contact and I smiled.  Some secrets are sacred.   For more on wild birds and other fun things found around our world, check out Wild Bird Wednesday!

"Above the Circle"

  

Portal, Arizona

Welcome to the isolated world of Portal, Arizona.  I ran away from home to escape the urban life for a much needed break. I had indeed found one of the last remaining places on this world mostly untouched by humankind.

Coyote

Well not really isolated when you consider all the incredible animal life around me.  But being the only one of the trails in the darkest forests felt at times eerie.

Mexican Fox Squirrel

I wrote to you all that I wish I could find bears.  And indeed I did but the danger factor was high.  I knew several spots where they were watching me from the bushes and I don't normally feel that "spider sense" on my walks but in Portal I did.  There was an edge of danger to the walks.  In this part of the world, Mountain Lions, Jaguars, and Bears roam freely up and down canyons. I decided that my life was much more important than to get a shot of a bear.  At one point I chased the Elf Owls but stopped when I realized that there was a bear hiding behind a boulder. The Elf Owls can wait.

Mule Deer

Portal is a world protected by desolation. In fact, I had to enter the sandy deserts of New Mexico. I could tell immediately that I had left my beautiful Sonoran desert home.  Not many humans live here and the ones that do consider themselves to be lucky to live "Above the Circle"......those fortunate enough to be surrounded by nature and escape the madness of the human world.  It's a world of quiet, deep reflection and constant exploration.  I think I could like that life:)  Well except for the little inconveniences like not having a gas station nearby.  There was an OLD fashioned one 40 miles away!!!  And all the ATM machines(3 in a 50 mile radius) were blown out by a storm.  It was isolating. So bring cash.

Tarantula

I did attend a lecture by the research station on a wonderfully cold evening.  I will write about the research tomorrow and it again backs up the importance of our sky islands and diversity of life in Arizona.  

Mexican Jays

I found myself on hikes during the day and reading my book during the dark and cold nights sipping coffee.  One night I sat and listened to bird calls on my CD player to help me find all the incredible feathered ones.  And I'll share those finds with you all in two days. Until then, I leave you with this Jay flying off into the Portal skies......