Casa Del Mundo

A retreat into Never Neverland.  A place that is both majestic and in constant weather flux, Lake Atitlan made for a cool getaway into the steep mountain sides.   We didn't need a stair master at our place since it was already naturally built into our hostel.  We climbed hundreds of stairs everyday.

The lake waters continue to rise submerging older structures beneath her depths.  It was very bizarre to witness.  Along the shores, it had the appearance of guarding lost ancient civilizations.


Grayish Saltator

We visited several areas around Lake Atitlan and searched for wildlife.  Every morning a boat would come to pick us up from our pier and take us to the various spots around the lake.

Taken at the Lake Atitlan Wildlife Refuge

Storms would roll in and there were times it was dangerous to be out on that lake.  Atitlan would appear calm and smooth until monsoon storms came crashing down all around us at various times of the day.  The mists covered the lakes and everything changed quickly. One evening I was trapped out in the storm without a life vest.  I clung to the rope as rain poured down on me.  We watched as lightning struck the lake.  There is nothing like this type of experience to make you realize how small and  unimportant you are in the whole scheme of things.

And yet, life can be quite thrilling at times.  This over packed boat of passengers was the last launch for the evening.  Had we missed it, we would have waited until morning to head back to our hostel.

Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush

There are always unexpected twists while traveling around Mexico and Central America.  Patience is the key word and remember that nothing is ever on time.  They may say seven, but what they really mean to say is nine:)  As a birder, I had to be okay giving up that control a bit while we explored on our own.

Lake Atitlan at sunset

Our searches were fun and we did find new birds almost everyday.  Several birds had become common for me and I was able to label them on the spot.

Gray Silky-flycatcher

For many of us, our lives run on a routine.  I eventually missed those things we take for granted everyday.  For example, I have my sugar out at home for my coffee and hummingbird nectar, but in Guatemala if you left the sugar packets out, the ants would attack from out of nowhere.  Some of you may not know this but in Guatemala, you are not supposed to flush your toilet paper in the toilet.  It goes into the garbage next to the toilet.  It's those little things.......

Yet with these views, who cares!

Tropical Pewee

Some days were cloudy.  Some days were sunny.  So we took advantage when we could.

I don't often enjoy drinking, but we had such amazing drinks in Guatemala!  I hate the taste of beer and yet if you put a dark ale with spicy tomato juice, I'm happy!  Micheladas.  I missed them so much that when I got home, I made a few while writing several of these posts!  So good....

There is a waterfall behind me and I was playing around with my cell phone.  We were the only ones walking around the canopy of the rain forest.  It was actually a fun walk around Reserva Atitlan.

And of course by our hostel, we had narrow paths that went around the lake.  Some cities were safe to visit while others were out of the question.  If you visit, ask your hotel, etc where it's safe to go.  There are still people who are robbed on parts of these paths.


Brown-backed Solitaire

Here are two lifebirds that I had to look at closely.  I noticed that they were just slightly different from several other birds that looked appearance-wise very similar.

Boat-billed Flycatcher

The Mayans rule this part of the world.  We were subject to their rules.  Never call a Mayan a Guatemalan.  They fought brutal years against the Guatemalan regime and won their cause. Today they still speak their own Mayan dialects around the lake and cling fiercely to their ways. They barely tolerate the tourists.

Deforestation continues around this area. It was my final trip here as I will never be returning back in this lifetime again.  I hope the Mayans and others understand the need for conservation.  It's what has brought millions of people here over the years.  But the forests are diminishing by farmers cutting further and further into the mountain sides.  I remember what I saw in 2006.  So much has changed in 7 years.

Bushtit

Humanity is slowly creeping into more and more habitat and affecting our wild friends.  Below are images that I found interesting.  A House wren(below) finds a home within human structures.

House Wren

Humans will paint their colorful birds on sides of building.  But if they aren't careful, those images will be a faded memory of what was. 

And I am reminded that I am getting older.  All those straps around my body never used to be there.  They are life support to help me exist in this type of climate.  They contain water, anti-bug weaponry, money packs, a camera.......and yes, it did take its toll on me.

My final thoughts are below.  As your host and Spanish instructor, here is a lesson I learned while on this trip;)

All my best.  Until next time.......

Lake Atitlan

Somewhere far and tropical.  Maybe even alien to our own cultures. A lake surrounded by forest, tiny communities that all speak different Mayan languages, a volcano, and home to many retired people from around the world, Lake Atitlan is a must see in Guatemala.  It's not your typical tourist place. To get there, we took a local bus into the high mountains and descended into the community known as Atitlan. It's full of wonder and beauty.

Let me tell you.  Guatemala has so much to offer.  It's really an incredible place.  Just when you think you've seen it all, another amazing place appears before your eyes.  I love indigenous cultures and this isolated "island" is home to 13 separate Mayan cultures!!!  We hired a guide to take us around the lake and for a beautiful hike.  While he spoke Spanish, it wasn't his native language.  To get to the village of San Marcos(where we stayed), we took a boat to cross the lake.  It was rainy and cold while we were transported to the docks.  I noticed right away that Spanish was not the main language of this area.  I sat in the boat with my sister thinking, "What are they speaking?"  In fact, I don't think some of the Mayans spoke Spanish at all.  This area is safe to visit, but there are a couple things you should know before you go.  One.  Watch your money.  Several people staying near us had their money stolen.  The young lady hid her money under the mattress and later discovered it was gone.  Be careful.  I wear a money thing around my neck which hides under my shirt at all times.  I don't trust anyone.  Two.  Hire a guide to take you around the area as tourists have been robbed along the sometimes torn up road. Three.  The Mayans are Mayans and not Guatemalans.  I made the mistake of asking our guide about a Guatemalan issue and he told me, "I'm Mayan, 100%.  If these Guatemalans want to try and take our lands, let them try.  We'll show them our forces."  Indeed.  The Mayans did take back their lands in the late 90's as the Quechua did in Bolivia.  The Mayans number around 12 million in the country while the "Westernized" civilization make up around 3 million and mostly live in Guatemala City and Antigua. Again fascinating stuff and still fresh in the minds of locals.

The village of San Marcos was really nice.  Let me describe to you what happened here.  Nothing.  A great hike.  The BEST one hour massage in the rain forest by a French lady(oh how I could relive that experience again).  A community of outsiders who worshiped the moon and chanted at sun down. And an amazing and friendly group of Mayans who lived in very basic homes.  Lake Atitlan is home to a group of retired Americans, Europeans, and Canadians.  Some areas have expensive homes while most still retain their local charm. 

It is a popular place to visit.  I fell in love with the village of San Carlos.  We hiked there on the semi functioning road.  Every village spoke a different Mayan dialect.  If you pass several churches, please be aware that it may not be possible to enter while a service is going on.  It all depends on the village you visit. 

I'm a giant with bird legs.  Most normal human beings look like my sister and our guide.  I also fell in love with the castor bean plants all around the lake.  It was definitely a weed here and in some spots...out of control.

There are some nice restaurants here in San Carlos.  Most of the tourists head to this little town for a day visit, but again, if you're looking for some quiet time to reflect, I highly recommend San Marcos.  Some friends went to Guatemala recently and I gave them the same info I'm sharing with you all and they were absolutely sold on the place.  They came back with smiles.  I think this is a wonderful place to take your significant other, friends, or family.

I wear ugly clothes on hiking trips because I can get rid of them easily.  This was a backpacking trip and therefore, I left several shirts behind at each place we went so that I had room for the incredibly beautiful fabric Guatemalans(and Mayans) sell around their country.  Peru and Guatemala both have some amazing designs!

This was a pic was taken from our hotel room.  It is a really beautiful place.  Below, my sister is checking her bed for spiders.  Electricity goes out at a certain time at night and candles are provided in rooms.  If it's one thing Guatemala has a lot of, it's spiders and scorpions!!!  Always check under your bed, around your sheets and under your pillow for hiding insects.  I'll write more about this in a post on Lanquin coming up.  Some of you may be horrified by the story.  I know I was. We learned our lesson well after that experience....hence my sister obsessively checking her bed sheets.

More tomorrow......