The Silent Forest

the 'Apapane

My final post on Hawaii deals with something I have rarely felt while birding, sadness.  Immense sadness. Birding has always brought me joy, but while on Maui, I unexpectedly felt the horrid pains of sadness. Over the past 3 weeks, I've shown you the positive and beautiful moments from our treks, but this week, I must end on a very bittersweet note. While on our trek I didn't expect to experience the hard slap of extinction against my face.  The possible extinction of the California Condor during my 8th grade year was horrifying, but this bird has made a comeback. In fact, humans can reverse most trends when it comes to the decline of populations.  But in Hawaii, I felt hopelessness.  And deep deep sadness.

People have artificially made these islands beautiful with exotic things.  You can eat banana bread.  You can go to a luau and enjoy the ocean breezes.  It's all make believe like the city of Las Vegas. It's a major tourist hub. But because of this human manipulation, most of Hawaii's native bird populations will go extinct within our lifetimes.  And no one seems to care!  I had two profound experiences that I must share.  The first is the title of this post, the Silent Forest. 

After our gorgeous trek to Hana, we decided to take a major hike within the southern end of Haleakala National Forest.

I asked the park ranger if we'd have any chance of spotting the endemic honeycreepers.  Her response to me was that we would have to go higher up to find those birds.  And I responded, "Hosmer's Grove, right?"  "Yes, Hosmer's Grove."

So we hiked up this steep 2 mile trail into gorgeous forest, with most of it being exotic vegetation NOT native to Hawaii. NEVER in my entire life have I had silence hit me so hard.  We were in a forest and there wasn't any bird song! I teared up a little.  Meanwhile, people were screwing around and climbing up the trail hitting trees with bamboo poles, shouting and just not understanding what has happened here.  All they wanted to do was see the big waterfall at the end of the trail.  

Sometimes we'd see a tree perfect for honeycreepers and there was nothing

This tourist attitude made me so angry. Then after about a little more than a mile, I hit a huge patch of bamboo forest.  It's beautiful!  But it's not native to the island.  And again.  Silence. 

The silence was so deafening that no wind or waterfall could cover the absence of song. I went from tears to anger.  How could we let this happen? HOW?! 

Eventually we made it to the waterfall and it was beautiful.  But it was empty. I thought to myself, fine.  Let Hawaii destroy itself.  No one cares.  Tourists certainly don't.  I really don't feel that way now but it was my initial gut reaction.  We had been on the island for a week without finding a single honeycreeper.  I thought in my arrogance I could find one outside of Hosmer's Grove. But I was just an asshole who was overconfident in his abilities. I was so angry at everything that I had to write this post as the last one. I needed time to process what I felt. It IS as bad as people have reported.  

After our walk, I went home with a lot on my mind.  The following day, we would take the trek up to Hosmer's Grove.  I wanted to know what made it different from everything else on Maui. Why do honeycreepers exist there and very rarely anywhere else on the island?

We arrived the next day into the misty world of Hosmer's Grove.  I could already sense we were in a different habitat. The difference?  Cold and above the mosquito zone. Before the mosquitoes brought their deadly disease, these honeycreepers covered the islands at every elevation. Thankfully on Maui, there is a huge restricted stretch where the montane trees meet the shrubby alpine area away from mosquito and human populations. Here these honeycreepers make their last stand. This is where most of these birds can only live now. Luckily on Maui, much of it is off limits to people or difficult to reach on this large mountain range. On West Maui, I believe the two peaks in that area also have endemics high up but there is no road nor way to get there beyond flying on a helicopter to the locations. For birders, you really have only TWO options.  The Waikamoi Preserve or Hosmer's Grove.  The 3rd is trickier as much of it is on dirt road.  Rain can make the road to Polipoli State Park difficult and therefore many birders head to Hosmer's Grove instead. Waikamoi Preserve is only accessible to birders once a month. So if you were like me, you'd really only have ONE option.

a juvenile I'iwi

We arrived one day late in Maui and missed the monthly walk into the Waikamoi Preserve.  You must contact them at least 2 months in advance.  Why?  There are two VERY special species that can be seen on this walk.  One is the Crested Honeycreeper, or Akohekohe, and the other is the Maui Parrotbill.  I assure you that they are VERY cool birds and ONLY found on Maui.  The Maui Parrotbill is the most endangered at around 500 birds left.  The other, the Crested Honeycreeper, has around 1500-3000 birds and is listed as Critically Endangered. Of all the preserves found around the state of Hawai'i, I think this protected area is one where these Hawaiian species might have a chance.  The Crested Honeycreeper's numbers fell mainly to the mosquito spread virus and feral pigs.  Areas continue to be fenced off and this bird may be having a comeback. On the island, I found all of my birds except these two.  

Hosmer's Grove.  This is THE most common place birders go to get the big 4, the I'iwi(pronounced Ee-ee-vee; the double u is pronounced like a V), the 'Apapane, the Hawai'i 'Amakihi and the Maui 'alauahio.  It took me 2 treks to study these birds.

When we arrived our first time to Hosmer's Grove, it was misty and cold.  For the first time, we pulled out our sweatshirts and it felt good.  Instantly, I could hear a healthy forest. Finally!  It overwhelmed me and I teared up. I stood in the rainbow Eucalyptus forest and had goosebumps.  One of the most exciting things for me is standing in a new habitat listening to the new choir of songs. I close my eyes and let my ears absorb all the new and alien sounds. All the calls were foreign to me and like a good citizen scientist, I memorized each and every single one.  

the Hawai'i 'Amakihi(Maui subspecies)

The gnatcatcher "Zeet!" of the Hawai'i 'amakihi was amazing.  The slightly stretched "chip" of the Maui 'alauahio reminded me of a warbler.  The electric zingy sing song of I'iwi echoed from a small rocky canyon.  And the short descending "woot" of the Apapane gave away the bird's location.  I had goosebumps!  And not because it was so cold.  

During the rainfall, the honeycreepers were most active like this 'Apapane

Micheal had seen that I was so focused that he stepped back and let me do my survey alone.  The rain kept people away but the birds were very active.  I stood on these last sacred grounds and tried to memorize everything.  To date, every bird that I've seen  in my life is still around in good numbers.  These birds may be the only time I see them in my lifetime.  I write about having a limited amount of time often.  I felt the gravity of time here and I put hunger and the cold temps aside to take in. every. second. of. my. observations.  All I can say was that it was sacred and beautiful.  It was one of the most memorable events of the year. 

the Hawai'i 'amakihi

Days passed.  We had only a few more before we flew home to Arizona. I couldn't let go of Hosmer's Grove.  I had to go back again.  Just one more time. Just one more time. Micheal sensed I wanted to go back again because I had been affected so much the first time we were there. It was like saying good-bye to a dying friend.

The Pueo

I walked the forest once again, but this time it was sunny for a moment.  A Short-eared Owl swirled over my head as a sign.  Micheal stayed in the car.  He's not a true birder but enjoys seeing birds.  Obviously I go a little more in depth with my work and it takes time to get the documentation I need.  I recorded vocalizations of the 'Apapane and 'Amakihi.  I was able to get photos of the birds with a lot of patience. During this trek, I added the "Big 4" and the Nene to my life list.  These are the diamonds on my life list.  I won't forget them any time soon. 

Maui Creeper or Maui 'alauahio hides behind vegetation, but the chip note cues me in on the location

I failed my first time at Hosmer's Grove by confusing this juvenile Maui 'amakihi(below) for a Maui Creeper, or Maui 'alauahio(above).  During my second visit, I was able to locate this tree creeping bird by its slightly extended chip note.  And there were several in the area. The female 'alauahio looks similar to a juvenile Amakihi.  Plus their names were a nightmare to remember:) Note the straighter bill in the above pic.  Also the dark lores help distinguish these often confused species. It was easier to ID hearing their distinct calls.

I recorded a "Zeet!" with this bird making it a 'amakihi but before I could ID this call, the smaller bill, etc made me think Maui 'alauahio.  That's when I had to go back to the drawing board and do more observations.  Juveniles can be tricky for birders as their bills are not quite developed long enough.  Also it's not straight like the off season similar looking 'alauahio

These endemic birds face an uphill battle.  There are so many difficult things that they face.  Humans civilizations have done major damage to the populations of birds.  The game changer that killed off so many birds in the beginning was the introduction of the Polynesian people who clear cut forest.  Then the Europeans and Americans brought mosquitoes.  The mosquitoes brought disease and did the most damage wiping out so many species.  In fact most of these birds would be extinct today if it wasn't for the higher elevations.  These mosquitoes can't survive the higher and wetter climate.  BUT....

The 'Ohi'a Plant is a very important native bush for the endemic honeycreeper populations

Global warming is threatening these birds and the mosquitoes have been found to be moving up in elevation.  The eruption on the main island of Hawai'i has decimated a preserve of honeycreeper territory.  The plant, 'Ohi'a Lehua, is dying from a fungal disease on the big island and is now also found on O'ahu.  This plant is vital to these birds in that many of the honeycreepers use it for a food source. The introduction of exotic species like rats, goats, cats and mongoose have also had a major impact on these birds. Only at the higher levels have they made any progress.  We certainly saw a lot of mongoose, rats and cats around the urban areas. 

Haleakala National Park

The Nature Conservancies and the Hawaiian Audubon are working hard to try and save these birds.  Recently they released the now extinct-in-the-wild Hawaiian Crow, or Alala, back into the national park on the big island but they happen to be above the area where the main lava flow is burning everything downslope.  In any case, they are closely being monitored at this time.  

I made phone calls and did more reading while I was on the island.  People are working hard to save these birds from centuries of damage.  Native plants are replacing exotic ones.  A sterilization project is in the works with this particular species of mosquito that is spreading the deadly avian diseases around the island.  And areas are being fenced off from feral goat, cat and mongoose populations.  Some of the bird species like the Akiki, Maui Parrotbill, Akohekohe and Palila are confined to small areas.  Their numbers are not promising but for now, their populations are protected behind fenced walls until they can remedy the situation.  IF they can remedy the situation.  When visiting the islands, it's a good idea to visit O'ahu and then Hawai'i last so that you do not spread the 'O'hia lehua fungal disease to the other islands. OR just wear new shoes. For the latest in Hawaiian Birding, click here. 

Maui 'alauahio gleaning insects from the vegetation.

Learning experience? When I came back from Hawaii, I realized even more that I cannot change the entire world, but I can make a difference where I live. And LEARN from these sobering experiences.  This birding trek has made me want to fight with those who would undo our beautiful planet.  I live in the Sonoran desert, one of the most beautiful places on this planet and it is here that I make and will continue to make a difference.  For environmentalists, our first fight begins in November.  And then there will be more. Recently more damage has been done with this current administration and our US birds.  Click here for the latest on the Trump administration and his rollback on pesticides. 

To see the birds found at Hosmer's Grove, click here.  Next week, we take you to the Tucson Audubon's Southeastern Birding Festival.  I'll be leading two days of fun with awesome birders.  What will we find?  Stay tuned for more!  Until next week!